JVM1790SK01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Part arrived next day! Thank you Parts Select. Holder bracket on older GE microwave was broken so MW would not start because door latch did not activate door switch. Removed front panel unplugged all the wiring (after I had taken a picture) to gain access to the holder bracket. Unplugged the three door switches. Removed two screws that held the holder bracket. Installed three new door switches into the new holder bracket. Positioned the bracket behind the frame and screwed back in the two screws. Snapped in this seven wire attachments, set the control panel back in the microwave and secured it with two screws. I only needed one screwdriver and one needle nose plier to remove the wire attachment from a door switch which made it easier to remove. 40 minutes.

When removing a non-working door switch, you will see a hooked piece of plastic on the holder locker that looks like a latch. If you try to pull it back in order to either remove the bad switch or install a good one, it will likely break. Instead, you need to pivot the switch (It pivots on a little post which is fitted into a hole at the corner of the switch) out of position so that it is not held back by the 'latch'. Then lift the switch out. If you have to use lots of force anything, you're doing something wrong. Reverse all this when installing the new switch.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great

I did some research and found the part through this website. Very easy to change the heater sheath, just took long to take everything apart. Looked at some diagrams to see exactly where the part was.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.

Ridiculously easy, unscrew, and change bulbs. Having the correct bulbs made all the difference, I did not have to waste time looking for the correct one.

Our Microwave’s Halogen Light Bulb burned out.

We looked in our manual and were able to take the cover off to get to the bulb, but we were unable to unscrew the builb and the bulb in the manual did not match the size of the one you offer (size and part number were different)

We called 1-888-738-4871.

Gentleman who answered was very knowledgeable: answered all of our questions (PULL THE OLD BULB OUT) and assisted us by ordering replacement bulbs.

We (more importantly my wife) were very pleased with the result.

Inside "cavity" bulb was a PITA. Need to remove top decorative trim (2 screws and tabs) to access bulb housing. Broke 1 screw tab so be careful (Wiggle it more). Acccess to bulb housing was made for younger smaller hands, attached by 1 screw. Remove screw, rotate housing, replace bulb. Reverse proceedure. Outside bulb, cake...1 screw, drop lens replace bulb, your done.

change bulb

Removed the glass shield and inserted the 2 bulbs. Then replaced the glass shield.

The staff were terrific. Thanks so much as it had a happy ending.

Anita