JVM3670CF08 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

When we moved into our recently purchased home, I noticed that the turntable in the microwave wasn't turning. I discovered that the coupler was missing and hoped that nothing else was damaged and that getting a new one would fix the problem. I ordered the part and it came the very next day, even though I got 3-5 day shipping. Didn't even have to unscrew anything to install it. It popped right in and the turntable works perfectly now.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Easy. A little awkward getting to the part since microwave is over stove and not much room between range and microwave. Other than that, it was a piece of cake.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Removed the bottom panel from the microwave. Check to see if there was still power going to the turntable motor. There was still power there. Looked up the microwave model# on the website which showed a full display of the microwave parts. Selected the part. When the part arrived. Removed the bottom panel off the microwave. Removed the 2 screws holding the turntable motor in place. The new turntable motor was slightly different so I did have to cut a small slot in the new turntable motor so it would slide into the punched out slot so it would sit in the correct position. The job was still very easy and I complete the repair in about 20 mins. It was great to be able to do the repair myself and saved me some dollars. I would definitely recommend PartsSelect.com to anyone.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

There are five Philips screws on the bottom outside cover .one at each corner and one at the front center. Remove all four at the corners .leaving the front center for last. When the last screw is removed ,the cover will hinge down, it is attached to clips at the back that allow it fold down. The wire attached to the light socket is connected by a pull apart plug. Grasp at each end of the hard plastic connector and pull outward ,DO NOT PULL ON THE Wires ! Lift the cover from the back of the microwave place it on a flat surface on a towel keep it from sliding around. Remove the screws holding the porcelain sockets. Reverse procedure to reinstall .Installing new Halogen lamps is suggested. Use a clean tissue or cloth to handle the lamps, finger prints on the lamp will shorten the life .

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

I replaced the cover just fine but i think a sensor went bad

slipped them into place by hand

every thing is working, but no hot

Uninstalled microwave from above range, removed cover then vent assembly (slide slightly to the left to free it). Opened the control panel (slide up then tilt forward) to access the troubleshooting/repair/test sheet. Followed the diagnostic flowchart and determined the TCO above the cooking cavity had failed. No other faults found. Ordered part Sat. afternoon and rcvd it Monday. Part is held in place with spring clips and quick connect terminals so installation was easy. Microwave was back in operation in no time.

Trouble shot first by removing the digital read out face plate panel, lifting it up and out. Found the thermostat housed on the bottom section (found a picture of what I was looking for). It had two connectors. Removed the connectors and noticed that the one looked burnt/melted that was on the thermostat. Took paper clip, connected it with the wires to bypass the thermostat. Plugged in the microwave and power returned. Yes! Ordered thermostat part and changed it out. The new part didn't have a piece that fit exactly into the floor of the microwave so I just made sure it was secure to the bottom. It is only attached by 1 small screw. Fixed!

Very simple it took me less than 5 minutes to fix it.