JVM1640C General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

Used Google to locate parts dealers for GE.
Ordered from Partselect.

Part arrived a few days later and I easily put it in.

I thought the cost of this part was out of line but all others sold it for about the same.

A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Unfortunately the filter upgrade for my microwave was not a fit. When I tried it in my microwave my microwave did not work. I thought I was going to have to have a repairman come and check what was wrong. I decided to put the original filter back in and when I did my microwave worked fine. Select Parts Has issued me a refund for the purchase I made that did not work. I am at present still researching for a filter that work for my microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

I removed the microwave from the wall and observed where the sound came from, I then removed the part that was held by two screws, then I order the part on Part Select it took three days to receive the part and in 5 minutes I installed it.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.