MER6750AAW Maytag Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Pretty straightforward repair.

Remove the storage drawer under the door.

Remove the top trim piece that holds the plastic trim to the door.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the front panel glass trim in place and slide the panel out from under the door trim.

Remove the door trim from the door by removing the side screws (1 each side) and the 2 on the front.

Remove the handle from the trim by removing the 4 retaining screws.

To re-assemble, reverse the process.

Total time: 15 to 30 minutes.

To better access the bottom screws, I removed the door by opening it to the first open position and lifting it up off the hinges. No tools are needed for this but careful, the door IS heavy! Place on table or counter top. Remove the Phillips screws, old trim, and clean the outside of door. Position new trim and replace with the new screws provided. By securing the new trim, I did not have to worry about the glass sliding out when flipping the door to clean the inside. Finish by sliding the door back on the hinges. Looks like brand new!

Side Notes: One of the side pieces of the trim was fairly bent when received. Since the misshapen piece was nicely painted i.e. parted when bent, this was a Maytag (Whirlpool) supplier issue and NOT a PartSelect issue. Rather then damaging the paint bending this piece back to fit the door, I reused the old side piece which was in great shape.

Thanks PartSelect , you're the best!

I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

Removed old Element-B by removing 4 screws and inserted new
element. Took less than 5 minutes. It's as good as new now.
I thought I needed a new range but my son-in-law suggested I
go online and check if part is still availabe. It was and the rest is history. Thank you PartSelect.

replaced burner by following the wiring from the photo we took. worked god except was cooking to hot and would not cycle. went to use my smaller burner in the back on the same side and the center of the double came on. so we watched another video looked at what we did wrong with the wiring. here we wired the burner slightly wrong we did not follow the numbering. this time followed the numbering and all is good. burner is working good and cycling.

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

The replacement unit was a substitute part. Wiring slightly different. Instructions bare minimum. Follow instructions and it does work. No instructions as to how to remove the stove top. Been there before so sort of knew how. Nothing in the Jenn Air manual for stove top removal. The control panel has to be removed, two screws on each side and four hex screws on bottom, this allows for the disconnect of wiring for the top.
Remove the two trim pieces one on each side. One screw at top and one at bottom. The trim piece will move towards the rear and come off. Two screws on each side and two in the back will release the top. Remove top and lay on padded surface. You are ready to replace unit.

My genius scientist husband responsible all electric string connections, I responsible buy right parts and all support work, we worked as a team and fix the problems:) :)

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

I didn't repair anything because you sent me the wrong part! I submitted a claim to return it and it's been a week, and I have heard nothing from you. Horrible customer service, I'll be calling today.

Thanks to a previous poster who confirmed the need to remove ALL the screws around the door frame. I had removed the door (by opening it slightly and pulling it up off the hinges) then removed the screws all the way around the outside of the door. Once I could separate the front of the door from the back, I removed the remaining screws securing the plastic trim to the top of the door. While waiting for the part to arrive, I cleaned the interior of the door. The part fit exactly and the replacement was easy after attaching the handle to the front of the trim...with one small problem. Two of the screw holes along the top of the door were too large for the factory screws. I still have to make a hardware run and pick up slightly larger sheet metal screws with pan heads and some white touch-up paint. Then we'll be good to go!