MER6750AAW Maytag Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

The repairs was really easy. All you had to do was remove the screws holding the glass top surface down, raise it up, then start by pulling one wire at the time and plugging it into the new element. Then bolt the glass top surface down and it was ready to use, good as new.

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

I ordered both the light bulb and the switch that controls it. I had not pulled the stove out because the ones I bought this house from did not level the floor which meant I had to wait on a socket set to arrive in order to be able to pull my stove away from the wall. Once I got the socket set and the stove out I removed the panel on the back. I saw then that my red light bulb had shattered in half forcing the switch to just hang free. Glad I had ordered both parts, removed the old, replaced new with ease... then it was a matter of sliding the panel back in place without the main control panel getting misaligned, few trial and error checks and it went back with ease. New light works! Very easy.. probably less time if your floor is level.. then I had to play with the little legs to get it even again. For now it is ok until the spring where I go to redo the floor and make it all LEVEL! Very easy! Hope it doesn't burn out again but if it does I know what to do! Maytag rep wanted to charge me $100... No thanks!

verified that the heating element was at fault by measuring it with ohmmeter. There are 3 contacts on the outside of the element. Resistance between center contact and either outside contact should read something close to 0 ohm, if it is good, and if it is burned, it will read open circuit (infinite resistance). Wanted to make sure that this is not the switch, which I replaced a few months ago. Before I disconnected all the connectors from the element I made picture of all the connections, just in case I forgot what gets connected to what (didn't use it, though). Installing the new element was very easy. Most work is done getting access to the element. Repair went smoothly, range works fine, now.

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be replaced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.