KEMS378GWH0 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled.

This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.

Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less than 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.

Safety first , I shut off the circuit breaker . I removed the racks from inside the wall oven . I removed the the wall oven from the niche .Then removed the three sheet metal panels in the rear of the oven exposing the mounting screws that hold the blower down .I removed the wires from the blower motor and then the blower assembly ,then I removed the small duct affixed to the blower assembly by a single sheet metal screw and transferred it to the new blower assembly . I installed the adhesive backed foam strip that is a vibration dampener and reassembled in reverse order.Once the over was returned to its original position in the wall mounting I turned the breakers back on and tested the oven ...AAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ To be fair i must admit that I am not a novice at this 15 years of my working career revolved around HVAC and appliance repair ,still however a novice that is mechanically inclined can perform the same task in about 70 to 80 minutes as opposed to my 35 . That is all there is to it.

There are two lights in this model oven. The glass will open by pulling outward on the near end. Since these are halogen bulbs I used a clean cloth to hold the bulb while replacing. Bulbs are expensive especially when purchased from Kitchen Aid dealer. I got two bulbs from PartsSelect delivered in two days for considerably less.

Removed a screw and clip to remove the lens and replaced bulb. Then replaced clip and screw. Done.

First, I removed the grill from the top of the microwave by removing 3 screws and then by sliding it out. It was a bit tricky, but you have to rotate it under so the grill comes out from behind the display.
Next, I removed the bottom grill by removing 4 screws. This one removed easily. Then, I removed 2 more screws that were under the bottom grill and was able to start sliding out the microwave unit.
I was only able to pull the microwave half way out because some wires were stopping me from pulling it out more. I removed the big square piece of insulation and had enough room to get to the light assembly.
I removed the retaining clips by pushing the right side of the clips to the little opening in the middle on the right hand side. Then I was able to remove the light bulb and replace with the new one.

Not a repair. Just needed to replace the meat probe sensor for the programmable oven. Quick and easy purchase and very fast delivery took care of the problem. I was back in business.

Very easy once we figured out how to remove the oven door - which was insert the Allen keys in the holes in the hinges and pull the door out. We thought there was some way of using the Allen key to undo a pin or bolt but it was as simple as putting it through the hole in the hinge !!!!!

Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

Here's a 21st century tip for all repairs: Get out your cell phone and take pictures of the steps as you go so you'll always have a reference if you forget something.

The replacement of the tension spring is easy. Getting there is the hard part. First, you need to remove the grill between the oven and microwave doors. There are 2 screw in the center and one on each end. Then just pull it away from the oven. This allows access to the the two clips that hold the bottom of the door on.
Next, remove the 2 u-shaped clips on the bottom of the door on both sides. 1 screw each. The bottom of the door will be loose, so be careful on the next step.
Open the door. Clamping the outer part of the door and the inner part with one hand, remove the 2 screws on the the inside of the door cover. They are closest to you at 10 and 2 o'clock. The outer door trim will now come off. Put it aside and close the door. On the bottom of the door frame, locate and remove 2 more screws about 6 inches from the ends and the inside plastic cover will be free to remove.
Now you will be able to remove the broken tension spring by lifting and threading it out of the groove it sits in. Replace with the new tension spring by threading the looped side into that groove first and criss-crossing it over the other tension spring. Then locate the hole on the opposite hinge and slide it in place. This will lock it in. Reverse the procedure for putting the door back together as you did removing it. You may want to get someone to help you hold the door open considering the new spring will snap it shut without the weight of the door on it. After you reassemble the door, replace the vent grill between the doors and you're done.

First I removed the two screws that hold the sensor element in place (from inside the oven). I then pulled the sensor out about three inches and disconnected the two wires, and connected the new sensor. Screwed the sensor back into the back oven wall..

There was some confusion with the repair tech who first thought I would have to pull the pven out and remove the sensor from the back so that increased the time for repair. After pulling the oven it was obvious that the repair could be made from the inside..
The repair Tech's diagnosis of the problem was correct a nd fast. Part cost $75 on line ($102 from dealer locally). Saved over $125 cost compared to local repair man's visti.and that is a low side guess. Repair tech was very communicative.

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.