JT965CF3CC General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.

Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

Most important: Unplug or turn off the breaker before beginning! (I briefly saw sparks as I removed the old switch.) Look at the replacement switch. The springs on the sides hold the switch in, which means you have to press in these springs to get the old switch out. I slipped a small screwdriver in on the side while I pulled with a small pair of pliers. It's tricky, but it will come out. Once you have the switch out, just unplug the wire in the back, making sure it doesn't fall back in the hole before you get the new switch on. Then, just push the new switch into the hole in the stove and you're done.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

Ordered window pack from PartSelect then removed oven door from front of stove, then removed back of door and silver backing and glass pack. Dropped new glass into place. Replaced all backing,put door back onto stove. Tip. When removing screw keep them separated from each other as not to get mixed up when putting everything together. Good Luck, PartSelect has all the parts you need, this my second getting a part from them.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Turn off power. Remove 4 screws holding the fan cover inside oven using a 1/4 in. nut driver. . Hold the fan from turning and remove the nut by turning clock-wise(left-hand thread!) using a 1/2 in. nut driver. Then from the back of the range, remove the sheet metal cover to expose the motor(1/4 in. nut driver). Remove the 3 screws holding the motor(1/4 in. nut driver) and pull it out. The new motor comes with a seal, so don't forget to stick it on. Put everything back in reverse order and your done. Nice and quiet after that.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one