GI1500PHB8 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

I undid the bottom screws off the bottom front of the ice machine under the door... Knowing the water valve was at the front it made it super easy to get to and I didn't have to pull the machine out from under the counter etc. Turned off the water supply at the wall, disconnected that line at the valve, removed the line from the valve to the water reservoir. Unscrewed two screws that held it to the machine wall and put the new valve in, reconnected both lines and voila! Done! Running like its never run before. I filled up that reservoir for weeks by hand many times a day so the satisfaction is huge to have saved a fortune by fixing it myself! And I'm female which makes it even more satisfying. A monkey could put this part in. Anything a man can fix, I can fix too! Ha!

This causes more than one problem. When the system does not get enough water it makes thin ice. When the ice is thin it does not have the mass to slide down on to the cutting grid and stops about half way down. When the pump starts running again, the water hits the ice sheet that did not make it to the grid and water goes all over the place thus emptying the reservoir then it makes no ice. Water was entering very slowly into the reservoir with very little pressure. Changed the water valve and now pressure is higher and fills the reservoir completely enough to flush the reservoir as it is supposed to do. Works great and makes plenty of ice now. Just take the front bottom cover off by the 4 screws holding it on and look to the left and you will see the water valve. Get the vacuum cleaner and clean the condenser coils while you have it open.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

The repair was simple. Unplug the refrigerator, unplug the power connector from the fan and remove 3 screws. I removed the fan blade clip with the pliers and cleaned it off. Reversed the process, cleaned all the dust out with my shop vac and all works perfectly now. It took longer to pull the fridge out of it's normal position than to perform the repair. Every day it continues to work is one more day I don't spend $2000 or more on a replacement.

I removed the two screws that hold the shield in front of the grid and put them aside allowing access to the grid. I then removed the two screws that hold the grid in place. I unplugged the connector and then pulled it out. I reversed the process to reassemble and powered up the unit. I now have ice again. This whole process probably took me 15-20 minutes to do the install.

remove the front cover by removing two screws. then remove two screws with a nut driver on each side. unplug the wireing harness from the top of the unit (may need pliers for this) the pull the unit out. then slide the new unit in, connect the wireing harness, install two side screws, and install the front cover and wham you will have ice in about 30 minutes. thanks parts select. you were very easy to deal with

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Since no ice was forming on the evaporator plate, I first checked to see if I was getting water. Water to reservoir was fine, but it was not moving from the reservoir. Pretty logical that something was wrong with the pump. I pulled pump out. It was locked up, with a significant amount of calcium buildup. Replaced it and all works fine. Great ice again.

Removed old assembly by disconnecting 2 wiring harness connections and loosening 2 screws with nutdriver. Installed new assembly using same process. Had ice in about an hour. Very easy.

Simple, remove water reservoir (2 screws). Remove pump cover (1 screw). Remove 2 screws on bracket holding pump and unplug pump. My wiring was somewhat corroded and it took a bit of pulling to unplug. When you replace with new motor make sure to snap in new plug snug or it will not start up. Reassemble and away you go.Making ice no problem.

I determined the pump was not working by running the ice maker. After it started a cycle, I could fell the underside of the cold plate to insure it was indeed cold, but no water was flowing.
First, be sure the water pump electrical plug is in., it releases by pressing together the tabs at the ends, not sides.
To replace the pump, turn off the water supply and cover the drain hole at the bottom of the ice bin so you don’t drop parts down it. The screw-plug at the bottom of the water tank or a quarter will do.
Remove the water tank below the pump by taking out the thumbscrews at both ends. You can then see the hose at the bottom of the pump. If it is off, that may be the problem.
To remove the pump, pull the fill hose to the left out of the slot and bend it behind the pump to get it out of the way. Unplug the electrical connector and the pump hose. There are three ¼” hex head screws, teo on the side wall, one in back. The middle one is the hardest to access. I used both a nut driver and a socket wrench with a 4” extension.
When installing the new pump, be sure to plug in the electrical connector, the discharge hose at the bottom and position the fill tube as you found it. Forget any of these and nothing works. Re-install the water tank, replace the drain plug and turn on the water supply, in that order.

Insalled fan motor,problem went away. Thanks