KUIC15NRSS0 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

replaced handle

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

Removed and replaced the condenser motor fan kit. This was a very easy tear down and replacement of a bad component. Removed 4 screws to remove the bracket holding the fan motor kit pulled it out and replaced with the new unit (4 screws supplied) plgged in adapter cord (supplied) and re-installed took about 10 minutes.

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

Pulled out the Fridge. Removed the plug. Removed the back panel screws with nut driver. Vacuumed the coils & fan area. Disconnected the fan cable. Used a socket and thumb ratchet to remove the 3 mounting screws from its sheet metal bracket. Slid the old fan assembly out. Assembled the new Fan blade onto the new motor shaft and attached the adapter cable to the fan connector. Slid the assembly into place and reattached with 3 screws using socket and thumb ratchet. Connected adapter cable to fridge harness and plugged in the power cord to test the fan. With it working Quietly and knowing the the problem was solved, the back panel was reattached.

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

Instructions were really clear and easy to follow. Hardest part of the job was moving the refrigerator away from wall after it was filled with holiday groceries.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

I surfed partselect and read that a reader had a similar problem with a rattling fan. I then removed the back panel, after I had unplugged the unit, and was able to feel the slop in the fan shaft. I then watched the video of how to replace the fan and ordered the part soon after. The part arrived 3 days later! Easy to do. I was finished in 12 minutes and the fridge runs silently. The part of the job that took the longest was vaccuming the undercarriage. There was alot of dust! Couldn't have helped the efficiency on the fridge. Keep it clean.

Since no ice was forming on the evaporator plate, I first checked to see if I was getting water. Water to reservoir was fine, but it was not moving from the reservoir. Pretty logical that something was wrong with the pump. I pulled pump out. It was locked up, with a significant amount of calcium buildup. Replaced it and all works fine. Great ice again.

Open appliance door. Removed access plate at lower front (two screws). Removed two screws holding valve in place. Depressed water line retainers and removed water lines from valve. Inserted water lines in replacement valve, remounted valve, reinstalled access plate. Tested operation. (I did install a water filter during the repair to prevent reoccurrence.)