1985818101 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

The most important part of my repair was watching the video that was sent to me with my order confirmation. After I viewed it, the rest was easy. The only hard part was moving the washer away from the wall!

I ordered the part. Watched the video and did the repair. I removed the cover plate on the washer, removing the screws. I then, removed the broken water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. I placed the cover plate back onto the rear of the washer and "VOILE", it was done. I am a divorced mother of three, who has never attempted to do any type of home repairs, however, the way PartSelect has set up the website, it made it easy to determine what part I needed and provided me with a video which gave me step by step instructions on how to repair it. I even posted my victory on Facebook! Thanks PartSelect.

Because the washer was old, 27 years, I actually ordered a new machine but after doing so was able to get the old washer to pump out the water. It had overfilled and spilled water on the floor. The next time I ran the washer using "warm" setting the hot water inlet solenoid failure was evident. I checked voltage at the solenoid and it was getting power so figured I'd try ordering a $30 part. In a couple of days it showed up and after less than :30 minutes I had the washer running again. It would have taken less time but a screw stripped out and I had to locate a replacement. I'd definitely recommend PartSelect. Oh, we cancelled the replacement washer and figured the Maytag repairman could resume his slumber!

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

Removed hoses and inlet valve from washer, replaced inlet valve by attaching the electrical connectors, reattached new water lines, returned inlet valve to its place in rear of washer. Checked for leaks, washed a load of clothes, everything worked properly.

very well . it was very easy 20 min.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

Had to take the back off to replace valve