1068265980 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Googled for a solution to how to fix a refrigerator door that would not close. Was directed to a video from PartSelect. Was wrong brand, but I got the general idea. Then, I looked up a refrigerator repair for Whirlpool. Called PartSelect with my model number and ordered a Cam Kit. Total cost shipped $20. Arrived in two days during the Holidays! Nice! (Ordered 12/23, Arrived 12/26). Opened package, fired the video up. Fixed in 15 minutes. Amazing!

replaced cam, new one broke after opening door 3 times...

A You Tube video described the repair steps and by following these instructions the whole process worked seamlessly.

Fridge side: Remove all door bins. Close the door. Pry off top hinge cap. Using 5/16" nut driver, remove three screws. Remove top hinge by lifting it up. Place pad on floor to prevent marring. Hold door at sides. Open door halfway and lift it up and off the bottom hinge. Do not let door fall! Set door on pad. The lower and upper cams are different; do not mix them up (check the parts list). Remove the old lower cam from the hinge (on fridge) and install new lower cam with new screw. Remove the old upper cam from the bottom of door and install new one with shoulder screw provided. If the old cam does not have the shim, do not use the shim from kit. The kit has extra parts and screws. Lift up the door and set it on the lower hinge pin and close it. Reinstall the upper hinge and shim loosely with the three screws. Adjust the door before tightening the screws. Check that the gasket is compressed evenly all around. Open and close the door. The door should close easily. If the door does not close easily, remove it again and smear some Vaseline on the lower hinge pin and cam. Replace the door and put a little Vaseline on the upper hinge pin before inserting it into the door. Finally, replace the upper hinge cap and replace the door bins. Repeat procedure for freezer side. This fridge does not have water/ice dispenser in the door.

I took the upper three screws pull the door up and then removed the broker part in the bottom of door by removing one screw. Install new part and put door back securing it by the three screws on the top of regrigerator. Very easy

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Removed the screw from the old tray. Attached the new tray and return the screw using a wrench to assure the screw was torqued properly.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I watched the video on you tube and followed his instructions. It was very easy, it took about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Took out the door bins, 1 bolt on the plastic cap, 3 bolts on the hinge, took the door off, replaced cam at the bottom, all same size bolts, reset the door spent longer time cleaning the door selfs all done by my self in less than 30 min. others said it helped to have second pair of hands "my wife would of just got in the way :)"

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Followed the Partselect instructions - removed door, removed old cam and replaced with new cam. One lesson learned. There are two cams - one that sits on hinge below door and one that is up inside bottom of door. If you are replacing one, replace them both.

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.