YQCEM2735FQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Once again part select has come through for me. googled dryer won't start and a video on utube came up. typed my model number in on part select website and followed directions. was easy got part in three business days regular shipping. very pleased with this site.

First removed lint screen, then removed screws holding lint screen housing.Pushed on back of machine a little so that top could be pried up. Then replaced switch and put everything back together. Helps to have two people so one can push on back of top piece while top of machine is being pried up.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

First I removed the top back plate and found the electrical schematic, found the fuse and themostat. Went to Whilpool web site found exploded parts list to identify part (fuse)

removed fuse and tested with MM for an open. It was. Shorted the leads to verify that the Dryer operated. Found your site and was easily able to identify the part from the excellent description and pictures. Ordered it, installed it work great thanks

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

The video was very good and completely accurate. I pulled the dryer away from the wall, being careful to avoid disconnecting the flexible vent tube. Then I disconnected the electrical cord from the wall socket. Next, I removed the two Phillips screws located beneath the removable lint filter screen. One of the two top front release clips disconnected easily by the use of a small blade screw driver, rather then using the recommended putty knife. The other clip was somewhat more resistant, but finally released and I lifted the top of the dryer back, resting it on the wall cabinet. I then noticed that the two small screws attaching the dryer door switch were actually accessed from the underside, which prevented my accidental dropping of them, and/or the screwdriver into the interior of the dryer, as had been done by one of your previous customers. So, I opened the dryer door and removed the screws. I delayed the disconnection of the wiring connector from the old switch, also preventing the accidental dropping of the switch into the bottom of the dryer when I removed the two attaching screws. I had no difficulty with disconnecting the wiring connector, as was experienced by some of the previous customers. Next, I carefully attached the new switch to the electrical connector, again prior to re-installing the two connector screws, also avoiding the accidental dropping of the new switch into the bottom of the dryer. I had also ordered a replacement Door Latch packet, planning to replace this part when I replaced the door switch. However, when I had originally ordered the new parts I had not noticed the video which is provided showing this procedure. I quickly realized that the female portion of the latch, which is located in the dryer door, was not removable without first removing a couple of screws to allow a partial disassembly of the door to allow for releasing the tangs restraining the socket. Therefore, I decided to replace the door latch later when/if it failed. I then attached the bag containing the replacement latch parts to the inside of the dryer for installation at a later time.

I followed the video provided by ‘Partselect’; although it was not the exact model it was close enough to get the job done with high confidence.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

Unplugged dryer, unscrewed back, and replaced fuse. Easy as 123. Video showed what to do step by step! I am not a handy man, just a woman trying to be money5 smart. Anyone could do this and save on home repairs.

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Unplugged stove . Removed floor of oven . Easy . Removed the ignitor ,near back of stove under removed floor . .Left it in place to enable locating where wire came through back of stove . Pulled the stove away from wall . Removed back panel of stove . followed ignitor wire to its plug in position . Returned to the front of stove . Inserted new ignitor wire through back wall of stove . Went behind stove , pulled wire through enough to plug new ignitor into proper position . Put back panel onto stove . Pushed stove back against wall . Went back into oven to screw new ignitor into place . Replaced oven floor panels . Put cooking racks back in . Wife proceeded to bake once again .

Went on line and determined the problem was the thermal fuse. Removed the rear panel of the dryer, removed the leads from the thermal fuse, hooked them together and started the dryer. That confirmed the problemwas the existing fuse.Ordered the new thermal fuse, installed the fuse, hooked up the wires and it works finel Very simple fix. About a 10 year old dryer.