WGD8000BW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

We took the screws off of the back, took out the thermal fuse and replaced it with the new one.
We watched a video of how to do it which made it so easy.
Works great!

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

I was not able to find a video (or other specific instructions) that showed how to access the insides of this particular machine, but eventually figured out that all it takes is popping 2 clips, one on either side of the door by wedging a flathead screwdriver in the space between the top of the machine and the bottom piece that surrounds the door opening. The top then pivots up and can be moved back beyond vertical so that it hold itself in position.

After removing the dryer door, getting to the drum itself was not too difficult and only involves removing half a dozen small bolts. I was able to move the pieces off to the side without disconnecting any of the wiring. Without looking at the parts diagram I can't name any of the pieces involved, but there were only a couple. The drum can then be lifted right off its rollers.

The replacement felt for this dryer has to be fastened with adhesive, and I would recommend running the bead of glue around half of the drum, setting the new felt in place, letting it sit for a few minutes to let the glue set up, then repeating for the other half. I tried installing the entire piece of felt at once, but after getting about 3/4 of it on, pulling the remaining unattached felt taut to fit around the drum ended up removing the first part of the felt because the glue did not have time to set up. If you've ever changed a bicycle tire, you'll know about reaching that point where the tire doesn't seem big enough to fit around the rim, but it just needs to be muscled into place. Same idea here, but trying to muscle the felt over fresh glue while the just installed part comes loose is frustrating and in my case almost resulted in ruining the entire new felt strip. Once the felt is anchored it's easy to pull taut over the remaining part of the drum.

Took back panel of dryer off completely disconnected the drive belt to drum of dryer took off old idler pulley reinstall the new pulley and belt works like a brand new dryer

Pliers and screw driver to pop out the old door catch and pop in the new one. Saved $69.95 service charge for a tech to come to the home.

1 screw to replace.

Followed video instructions using flat scraper & pliers (easy).Tried to remove "SPARE" latch on other side of door. Even removed door myself (Easy).Tried for (45) minutes without success. Ordered part @ 11:30 pm. Replaced door easily by myself by leaving bottom screw for each hinge in place & replaced broken latch. Received new latch in (5) days. Removed broken latch without tools & replaced new latch in (15) seconds. Need help from any "Ladies" who can remove second latch so it is available for next replacement. This "Engineer" was too lazy to remove the screws around the door because he was going to "Follow the Video". Overall it was an "Easy Fix". Keep the 'Videos"coming.

Videos are excellent to open and access internal parts. It turned out a rat was killed in the blower fan when we first encountered the problem. This prevented the blower from turning which interfered with motor function.

This required removing drum & belt, disconnecting motor clips, blower belt, and blower housing. The blower housing needed to be disassembled. Having a 5/16” & 1/8” ratcheting nut driver makes this process much easier. Don’t try this with a wrench.

After getting rid of the rat and decomposition, we sanitized the entire housing with soap & chlorine bleach.

Reassembly was uneventful and relatively easy. We ended up replacing 4 rollers, 2 belts (drum belt & blower belt), the thermistor which was damaged as a result of the blocked blower.