CEM2765FQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

NOTE: Please make sure the dryer is un-plugged any time you are reaching into the access panel with your hands or a tool. There are exposed connections everywhere. After using the diagnostic testing instructions (usually attached to the inside of the front panel) I determined it was a faulty Thermal Fuse. The PartSelect video instructs you to take half the dryer apart to access the Thermal Fuse, but I found it easy enough to just access it with the front panel removed. I used a small 1/4" drive socket to remove the single hex head sheet metal screw holding the Thermal Fuse in place. I then slid the 2 wires off, noting which went to which lug. Installed the new thermal fuse and after starting the screw by hand, tightening with the small socket wrench. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the wires as you are doing it all by feel, but it's a lot easier than taking half the dryer apart. Also, make sure you check the exhaust path for obstructions, that might be why the ThermalFuse blew in the first place.

Dryer works - thanks to a new fuse. Glad I tried this before just buying a new one. Video for my model indicated the fuse was located in the back and actually it was difficult to get to in the front. So extra time was wasted trying to get to fuse in the back. Thank you for the part!

I studied the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer. I diagnosed a bad thermal fuse (no continuity). Found the part online at Part Select. The part came a few days later and I was back in business. Great Service.

It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

took off back, took out 1 screw of thermal fuse. pulled off 2 wires. put on new thermal fuse put back 1 screw and plugged. in both wires. plugged in dryer to make sure it worked. threw in some wet clothes to make sure it worked.

The Termal Fuse did not solve the problem. Ordered a heating element so I hope its that

Found multiple videos on how to diagnose the problem. Parts plus showed me that over 50% of the time the problem was the thermal fuse. I put a jumper wire between the two connections on the thermal fuse to see if the dryer would fire up. Sure enough it did. Bought the $10 thermal fuse and changed it in less than 15 min.

Longest time needed was to determine what cause was. After that ordering part from PartSelect was very easy and saved me money. Part arrived before time given, part was correct and installed without problems.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Attempt to start dryer normally. Turn timer dial to high heat setting. Press the Push To Start button. Verify plug is secure in wall outlet. Got to breaker panel to verify breaker is not tripped. (Sometimes breaker may trip but visually appear no to be tripped). Reset breaker to maker sure breaker is in the on position. Attempt to start dryer normally. If dryer did not start proceed. Get a multimeter. Remove plug from wall outlet. Slide dryer from wall. Remove exhaust duct from bottom of dyer. Use multimeter to check voltage at wall outlet. Verify 120 to ground and 208 between hot legs. Remove rear cover if main dryer unit and rear of control unit. Connect the multimeter to rear of control panel rear of push button. Turn meter to ohm setting. Push the start button to see if there is continuity. Release the button to verify no continuity. Next major part of curcuit is the thermal fuse. Look on lower left area of dryer. With multimeter in Ohm mode place the leads on the light blue wires. If no continuity replace thermal fuse