WED8500BR0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The only challenging part was getting the old catch out. It can easily fall inside the door, not that this is really a problem, just leave it there. Using pliers get a good grip on the edge of the old catch and rock the top out, then pull to get the bottom out. There will now be an open hole. Align the new part with the open hole, and simply push it in. It will catch, and click into place. No tools are needed to install.

I removed the broken door catch with a screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to push the new door catch in place. It was an easy repair and saved me quite a bit of money.

The repair was easy. Shut off all power to the range, or unplug it. Remove the sheet metal back from the control panel using a nut driver or socket set. Pull the knob from the front of the control panel. Remove the two Phillips head screws that were hidden behind the knob. Pull the control switch out the back side of the control panel. Compare the old switch with the new one, to make absolutely sure you have the correct switch. Remove one wire at a time from the old switch and immediately install it in the exact same position on the new switch. When you have successfully transferred all of the wires from the old switch to the new switch, reinstall the new switch using the two Phillips screws. Reinstall the knob and the sheet metal cover. Plug the range back in, and/or turn the power back on. Trying boiling a pan of water to confirm that the repair resolved the issue.

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

Dropped new filter in.

I went on the site and found the part I needed and then watched the video explaining how to dismantle, replace the part, and put the dryer back together. It was easy, especially with the video instructions.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

Unplugged power cord. Removed rear panel screws and panel . Removed the two wires connected to part. Removed two screws holding part and replaced all components in reverse order.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

Remove old filter, throw it away, replace with new filter.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Unplugged dryer, removed bottom front panel, removed fan cover. I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove 2 screws and the old fuse. Installed new fuse, fan cover, and front panel. Dryer works great!

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

pushed the broken catch into the door and snapped the new one back in. Works perfectly!