7MMGDX655EW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Unscrewed the inside part of the door from the outside door shell. Removed the broken pieces of the catch and replaced it with the new one. Screw the door back together. Did not need to remove the door from the dryer cabinet.

removed two screws from lint screen raised top removed two nut screw from front disconnected lid wire lifted front up and off removed drum cleaned all dust out replaced pulley unit with new one (with a wheel) replaced tub held it up with a bungey cord put on new belt and reassembled unit tested out back in business

I opened the package with my new handle in it that I got from PartSelect, and snapped it right in place. No tools needed, took only seconds!

Found the belt was broken and the pulley wheel had melted, replaced the belt and the pulley, could not have been simpler. Watched the video on how to repair and in less than 15 mins was fixed. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself.

Lint can build up inside the dryer, and can cause a fire in EXTREME cases. If your model has a back panel that exposes the entire chute, this job is much easier. Unscrew the chute from the machine to remove it. Inspect and clean all the lint out, especially the bottom, next to the fan blower. The other version machine has a panel at the top that is welded on. Remove the two screws at the top corner of the rear bulkhead, where the chute is. Gently pull this inner panel away to free the top of the chute from the rear top panel. Then pull the chute down and out. Follow the reverse to complete the job.

Repair went well your video was a great help. The motor was hard to disconnect from the blower and fan side.The shaft that you hold with the adjustable plier was hard plastic type of material and wanted to keep slipping and the edges wanted to round off and not hold in the adjustable pliers. I had to use a small pipe wrench with teeth to break it loose. The only other problem was the ground screw in the new motor had an odd type of head on it and took a special type of nutdriver attachment to loosen it and attach the ground wire to the new motor.

Unplug from electricity, turn off gas valve, raise top, remove front. Take drum out of cabinet, unhook gas line from burner assy. unhook electric wires, marking them for re installation. Remove, and replace burner tube. Reinstall burner assy attach wires and gas line. (Check for leaks) Reassemble drum to cabinet, rethread belt thru tensioner, reinstall front, let top back down on unit.

I checked the motor to make sure it turned freely but it didn't so I knew it was bad, your online instructions made it so easy for me to make the motor replacement, if I ever need any appliance parts ever again .....you can bet I'm buying them from you. I purchased the motor for about 40% less then what it was retailed locally.

Pulled back panel off, then removed entire front body. Accessed the blower and the lint cover and removed. Removed drum and belt. Removed motor and replaced, reassembled and plugged in and it worked. Thank you

I started by removing the back of the dryer thinking that was the proper procedure. That is where I found the broken belt. After purchasing the belt I found belt replacement instructions on-line. The instructions guide you through simple steps to remove the two screws in the area where the lint filter is on top of the dryer. The top then simply lifts back exposing the drum. Two more screws just inside the top of the front panel and two screws to remove the door switch assembly and your in. That is where I found the bent idler pulley assembly that pops free when the belt breaks. I purchased the part and followed the directions and then re-assembled the dryer. Dryer works like new. The most important thing I learned through this is that I believe I can now fix anything that breaks on my dryer. With the all the information that is available on-line and the easy access to replacement parts dryer repair is really cheap and simple. Makes me wish I had done some troubleshooting on my previous dryer before I replaced it. Also going through the back of the dryer was a waste of time.

Just followed the steps on the video available on the site.Very easy. Removed the top cover. Removed the front cover. Released the belt from the motor. Pull the drum out. Installed the new seal. While waiting for the glue to dry, I cleaned all the interior of the dryer with a vacuum cleaner. Even got some extra screws that were probably removed in previous maintenance jobs. Once the glue was dry, I assembled the dryer in the reverse order, always following the steps from the video: Installed the drum back to its place, reconnected the belt to the motor, made sure the seal was in the correct place/alignment with the back wall, replaced the front panel, replaced the top panel, plugged back to the wall, turned the gas valve on, turned the dryer on, and it worked!!! Follow the instructions on the video.

the plastic fan can be tricky to get off,hold the pully side of motor with an adjustable wrench and turn plastic nut on fan clockwise.mine busted and i had to order another fan but they are easy to put on. counter clockwise to put back on.(reverse treads)

Removed and replaced motor. In the process of removing old motor, the blower wheel had to be unscrewed from the rear shaft of the motor, in order to remove the motor. In my case, the blower wheel had seized up on the rear shaft and could not be unscrewed. It had to be cut off and it also had to be replaced. The dryer now works fine. Tip: I watched an internet video (repairclinic.com)about the procedure before I started. Very helpful!

I removed the back before I relized that the motor was under the drum. I removed the front and the drum and accessed the motor. I used a small flat head screw driver to prythe brackets that held th motor in place. I had a bit of a problem removing the motor from the fan. Then I read the web site and figured out that the treading was a LEFT thread. Still had some problems and ended up removing the pully wheel and using a pipe wrench to get the fan off the motor.

I wish I had taken a picture of the pully and belt to see how it went back together, but it went back easy enough.

Very pleased with my effort and guess I saved about $300 bucks on the repair, and the 2 plus weeks to get the guy to my house.

My dryer is probably more than 20 years old. I know, I know, but I decided to fix it anyway. I followed the same steps as the other posters here. However, I almost never fix anything like this and the dryer is in a small space with only a couple of inches of clearance on either side.
The repair took 10 hours off and on over 2 days. You will definitely need another set of hands at various times like when you are unscrewing the fan from the motor shaft and when you are reinstalling the drum and belt.
Getting the motor mount clips off the frame was a huge pain and getting the motor back in place and the clips on correctly was a 3 hour learning experience. Make sure you have all the wires hooked back up BEFORE you hook up the motor mount clips. When you seat the motor on the mounts the wiring hookups need to be almost on the bottom. Check the instructions drawing for placement.
You don’t actually remove the fan cover you just unscrew the mounting screws and push it to the side.
Re-hooking up the belt and belt tightener is not intuitive but you will eventually figure it out. I found some generic dryer belt installation drawings on the Internet that showed me how to do it.
The photocopied instructions that come with the motor are kind of fuzzy after a few generations of photocopying.
In the end, it worked! It is also much quieter now.