DDG5180RAL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

removed r hex screws from front panel. took off cove. remove timer and knob. put in new timer. replace panel. replace knob.

I shut off the power supply (pulled plug) . Opened the front access door on bottom of dryer, The two coils sat on top of burner unit, with a plate and 2 Phillip head screws securing them. .I used a small set of pliers to pull the terminals off, then I used a short Phillip head screw driver due to the proximity of the dryer drum close by. The coils slide off, slide the new ones on, re secure the plate with screws, reconnect the terminals, plug in the power cord and away you are for a fraction of the cost.

First we removed the front panel then the door. Removed the old coils and put in the new coils, oh yeah don't forget to disconnect the power supply first. Sure enough that was all it took and it runs great. You really can fix your own appliance if you take the time to do some research.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.

All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.

I used a socket to take of the front cover. I used a screwdriver to remove the two screws that held the coils in place. Replaced the coils and put everything backs together. Piece of cake!

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.

Dryer was getting hot at start of cycle and would drop out flame and then cycle flame every 45 sec to 1 min. Pulled of panel to observe this and thought it was a heat sensor problem. Went online and people were saying a coil could be bad. I took coils out and tested them and they tested good but I bought new ones anyway as I figured they were going out of range as they heated up, This proved correct as dryer works .

Unplug dryer first! Remove toe panel with 1/4" nut driver on each lower corner. Gas assembly will be on the right immediately below right of drum. Use a short Phillips screwdriver to break loose two screws retaining hold-down plate on gas valve coils. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the screwdriver on screws which are not easy to apply torque to. Each coil will easily slip off stem. Disconnect catch on plug with very small flat tip screwdriver for each coil, then pull off connector. Ensure the 3-terminal coil goes to the front and the 2-terminal to the rear. Note aligning tips on coils which correspond to holes in hold down plate. Reassemble in reverse order except for toe panel. Plug in dryer and verify gas valve operation and flame presence. Replace toe panel.