MGDC555DW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Removed top cover. Removed front cover. Removed Drum. Located the broken belt. Found that there was no tensioner in the unit. Replaced drum rollers. Put in new tensioner. Repaced Drum with belt around it. Installed belt through tensioner and onto drive pully of motor. Supported Drum with wood block. Turned on dryer to insure drum turned without any problems. Removed wood block. Replaced front cover and top cover. Repair compete.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

I had two dryers, one was gas and the other was electric. The electric stopped heating. So I rolled out the gas dryer, but it was setup for natural gas and at this location, I only have propane. So I changed the jets to work with propane, in the process I broke the igniter, so I replaced that and that made the propane one work. Armed with the knowledge from that job, I took the electric dryer apart located the thermostat and replaced that and low and behold I have two working dryers. One for now and one for an emergency. I only have four screws left over!!!! Jim Cooke

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

Removed Back and found schematic. Found fuses on schamatic and parts inside dryer. Checked fuses and thermal fuses with an ohm meter and found one that was open. Went to Parts select and ordered part. Relpaced the part and dryer works like new.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Performed current check to determine possible problem-then Able to go on line with partselect, extremely easy part description and selection, ordered, part arrived next day. Could not have went any better

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Watched the videos available. Opened the top and saw tub jumping. Unplugged and removed front panel. Saw tub rollers were broken or melted. Removed tub watched more videos, and installed the felt belt I got from PartsSelect. Trouble removing the tub rollers, but finally got them off. The axles had a sticky residue which I removed with 220 grit sandpaper. I installed new rollers I had bought locally. Reassembled dryer. Worked quietly and smoothly, and it no longer shut itself down. Worked well for one day when it started.s loud noise with bumping. I found both rollers had lost their outer rim , and the tub was running on hard plastic and there was sticky residue back on the ankles. I stopped there.

Went on line and determined the problem was the thermal fuse. Removed the rear panel of the dryer, removed the leads from the thermal fuse, hooked them together and started the dryer. That confirmed the problemwas the existing fuse.Ordered the new thermal fuse, installed the fuse, hooked up the wires and it works finel Very simple fix. About a 10 year old dryer.

pulled dryer away from wall took screws out of lint screen lift top removed 2 screws one on each side of front at top and removed front panel. pulled belt off drum removed drum rollers tension pulley and while i was at it pulled back cover off of heating element and blower blew everything out with air hose did a total cleaning installed everything in reverse. i was amazed how fast the parts came the dryer was only down 2 days and it runs like new even if it is 20 years old i highly recommend parts slect and i will use them in the future