MGDC555DW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Need to access back of dryer so you probably have to take exhaust hose loose as I did b/c mine was aluminum foil flex type. Was an oppt'y to clean it but fiddly when reinstalling. Since the control panel is tilted slightly back for ease of use, I tilted the whole dryer forward to get better access to timer mounting screws. Very easy install. Even though there are a lot of wires, they are grouped into 4 molded connectors which are all different shapes, so you can't get it wrong. You might have to pry a little to get them off and I suppose you could break the connectors if you are too rough. There is a fifth separate small connector with 2 black wires and that one is hard to release. You have to press a release tab down and fiddle a bit.
As you face the cabinet from the back do note the timer's left mounting screw also shares holding an L-shaped bracket to secure the buzzer, and if you reinstall putting the buzzer bracket first you will not be allowing the timer to rest flush with the back of the control panel. So I installed the right screw back first which held the timer tight enough to then line up buzzer bracket with left screw hole in timer. Also note when seating the timer in place there are two protruding dimple things on the front which fit into two holes drilled in the dryer to be sure timer is properly oriented up and down so that it looks right when put back together with writing around knob pointer.

Replaced dryer timer with a new one. Was really easy to replace. Just had to remove timer knob and back cover to get to timer. Then removed all wiring harnesses from the timer and unscrewed the two screws that holds it in place. Installation of new timer was in reverse order. Tested new timer and it solved the problem.

Take the door off of the dryer. Lay it on a towel. Remove old gasket. Clean the channel the door gasket fits into with glue remover. Squeeze high temperature glue into the channel, let the glue set up. Put the new gasket into the channel, tape it down in a few places. Let it sit 24 hours for the glue to set up. Put the door back on. You can put the door on immediately as long as you don't use the dryer for 24 hours. Easy.

removed old gasket took door off 4 screws. cleaned seal area applied glue put on gasket easy

Replaced fuse but new fuse immediately blew.
Put in new fuse and thermostat. So far OK after 2 days running dryer.

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

Perfect!

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

very easy

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

As seen in video, All Good !

The original door catch had broken and would no longer stay shut. Ordered the part from this site with ease. Very easy to replace the broken door catch on my Amana dryer. Tool needed was a flat head screwdriver to loosen the cover, remove broken piece and easily replace with new part. Followed the video and it was back to normal operation within minutes.

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.