DBLR453GT1AA Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Checked out the coil seemed ok. So I replaced the radiant flame sensor. No change. Then I replaced the High limit sensor still the heat was not staying on. I read some were in the troubleshooting guide that the coil can test good, but can still malfunction. So that was it new coil fix it, works like a new Dryer again.

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

Had to skip holes for tabs on corners. could not stretch gasket to fit the holes. Cut off the unused tabs in order to close door. Used pliers to push tabs in holes. New gasket fit sufficently and is better than old cracked gasket.

Opened up dryer for access to all components and tested. All checked good. Put back together and tested and igniter came on but no flame. Purchased two new coils and tested again. No flame. Purchased complete valve assembly and replaced old one. Tested again and viola, success! TY PartSelect for exact replacement part.

I followed the instructions in your detailed online video. Fortunately on my model there was a removable panel on the back of the dryer which provided easy access to install the drive belt on the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Great video and very easy repair.

Found excellent instructions and diagrams online by searching under the model number. Best of all was the service from PartSelect. Belt arrived 24 hours after ordering. It was the right part, it was easy to install, and the dryer is running beautifully.

I removed the 2 screws and lock assemblies from both sides on the back. Then i removed 4 screws (two from each side) on the control panel and lifted that up as i tipped the cover forward to disconnect the wires from the door switch. I found the wiring diagram inside the control panel cover, which included a belt routing diagram (very helpful, being the belt was laying in the bottom. I then removed 3 torx srews holding the drum to the bearing, and removed the drum. Let the fun begin! i proceded to put the belt onto the motor pulley and around the tensioner. i needed some help from my wife to set the drum back in as i held the belt up around it. once the drum was back in, i found the beld had fallen away from the tensioner. I lifted the front of the drum up just enough to get both arms below it and move the tensioner back to slip the belt over it correctly. With the new belt on i started to put the screws back in the drum. This got very frustrating, as you have to correctly line up all the holes again, while holding the drum in the correct angle to start the screws. this was the hardest part, not physically, but wears on a person's nerves quickly! Once all the screws were in and tight, i took a deep sigh of relief before i tipped the front cover up just enought to get the wires hooked back up for the door. I turned the unit on to verify the repair before re-assembly. Yep! works again, for well under $20.00! Thanks PartSelect!

Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.

Removed gas line. removed control panel, removed top, removed front, removed burner, replaced igniter, put back in. paused and played the video. very easy to do. 42 minutes and I had a few beers.

After finding a matching knob for the broken one on my dryer, I ordered it from this website and within days had my dryer working like new again. Just slipped it on and that was it. No more using pliers to start the dryer. Couldn't have been easier.

Easy. Pulled off old one slipped on new one!

Pulled the old knod off and put the new knob on.

Took the top and front off. DO NOT TAKE DRUM OFF!! Lifted drum slightly and worked belt around drum. Replaced front and top. Took off rear panel at bottom near vent pipe. Put belt around motor and then tension pulley. Buttoned everything up and that was it!

Ordered new knob from you people and simply replaced borken knob.

Just pushed the knob on by hand and it was ready to start! It was great not having the extra expense of a house call! Thank you!