AE7233 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Very simple repair. Remove front panel, door, drum etc. Try to keep everything seperated, screws etc. I put lockjaws on the back to get the nut off the front. Make sure to check the housing for "melted on" blower wheel residue. Easy enough to remove. I checked with my local parts dealer he wanted twice the price and needed to order it (at least a days wait). PartSelect sent the exact same part in a day and a half. Put everything back the same way I removed. Hardest part is the drum and belt. While you have everything apart don't forget to clean the thermastats etc. PartsSelect was quicker and cheaper.

did basic diagnostics to narrow down the problem to be likely one of the three parts include w/ the kit. removed front panel and confirmed that part looked like the one on the web page. part arrived 3 business days after ordering.
used nutdriver to remove two screws holding old part in place. pulled old part out still attached to wiring harness and assembled new part and attached wires the same way as the old part. installed new part, plugged in dryer and confirmed that it was heating. replaced front pannel and dryer is now working as well as ever. hardest part was reaching to the back of the dryer from the front while lying on the floor. total cost was cheaper than a service call, let alone paying for parts and labor from a service tech.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

My son will discribe how he did the repair.
First I opened the top, then I removed the front with a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket. I took the cover off the blower housing with a nut driver. Used the appropriate socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet, and an adjustable wrench to hold the motor shaft and removed the Blower wheel. I replaced the broken Blower Wheel and put all it back together.
Our dryer is now working great and there are no unwanted sounds emanating from within. We are very happy with PartSelects promptness and that we recieved the correct part as ordered. PartSelect website was easy to navigate. We plan if the need arises to do so again in the future.
Thankyou Frank and Rodney

Well first of all you get to the back of the dryer from the FRONT.. after lower panel was removed location of the heating element was right in front of you. Two 7/16 sheet metal screws hold the heating element in place very easy to remove.. upon removal you will have plenty of room to pull element out and switch out the wires you need to do.. Upon examination I think my trouble was a high limit fuse that burned out, so I propably did'nt need to buy the whole element ( you might want to check that first it is the ceramic one ) cleaned everything out and dryer is as good as new Good luck

First unplug the dryer,then remove the front bottom panel. With your 5/16 nut driver reach to the rear of the vent tube under the dryer and remove the lone screw that holds the tube in place. Lean the dryer forward and remove the tube from the rear of the dryer,this will allow you to see and reach the idler wheel from the front. Release the belt,feel for the clip that holds the wheel in place on the opposite side of the front,with your thumb nail or something else if preferred pry out on one side of the clip until it pops off. Slide the wheel off being careful not to lose the washer,slide the new wheel on and replace the clip. Put the belt back on replace the tube,which is actually the toughest part because you have to find the hole for the lone screw as you can't see it,but with a little patience it is easily enough done. Put the vent hose back on replace the front panel and plug it in and go!!it took me 30 min. Alittle tough to feel for some of the parts,but really much easier than you would think.

Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.

The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off.
I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find

After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.

Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

My husband pulled drum out of dryer and replaced the idler pulley wheel and decided to replace the belt while he was in there. It's good to have a snap ring tool as it's a pain to replace the snap ring without this tool. Goes alot quicker!

The front of the dryer needed to be taken off, the drum needed to be taken out and the belt installed on the wheel structure.
I was very pleased at how fast I received the part after ordering it! I will definitely use this site again when ordering replacement parts!

Removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel and pulled the cover up and out. Labeled the wires to the light and door switch and disconnected. Lifted the belt tensioner arm and unlooped the belt from it and the motor. Removed the 4 bolts that hold the front drum support on then held the drum up and removed the support. Pulled the drum out slightly and allowed the rear to drop, at this point you can get to the rear rollers without pulling the drum out of the machine. The roller shaft was so tight I had to put a straight-blade bit in a 1/4" socket to get enough torque to break it loose. Make sure to use a large enough driver or you will strip the slot out of the screw. This model had a nut on the back but I was able to just drag my finger against it to get it apart. Removed the washer and roller from the shaft and cleaned the shaft and washer with WD40 before reinstalling with the new roller. Vacuumed all the lint I could get to and reassembled, lift drum, push back, front support, 4 bolts, belt, wires, front panel, 2 screws.

Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.