CG8409W2-PCG8409W2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.
Tested the dryer no more noise.

Thanks

Gas valve coils need replacing I followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the video followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the videos showed!

I removed the top and the front of the dryer and I had done before, so that was not to bad, then I moved the drum forward just enough to get it off the rollers but did not remove it all the way in order to keep the belt in place. I removed the snap ring holding the wheels in place and put the new ones on. I put the dryer back together, unfortunately it did not fix the problem. I am now waiting on the idler lever arm to replace it. Hopefully, that will be the key!

i watched the video that you provided and the repair went just as show. the video was a great to have.

1. Unplugged from wall, turned off gas and opened top cover. 2. Removed two wire clips for door switch and unscrewed front cover (2 screws inside). 3. Removed front cover and moved to side. 4. Unplugged connectors from coils. 5. Unscrewed coil screws. 6. Replaced coils and tightened screws. 7. Replaced front cover, tightened screws and reinstalled wire clips. 8. Closed top cover, turned on gas and plugged in power. 9. Dryer fired right up and made heat.

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.

Unscrewed old lint filter, took a shop vac and vacuumed out the dryer under the filter. And YUCK! Found a dead mouse in there! Got all the rest of the dust out and replaced the lint filter with the new one. There were no holes drilled in it for screws so we just set it in place and it works great!

I pulled off the old metal sheath with a pair needle nose pliers....grueling....then gently slid on the new knob.

First I removed the two screws that held the timer in place. then screwed the new one in place. I then held it to one side and swaped the wires one at a time [8wires] so as to insure the wires were in the correct location. Replaced the cover and dials and it works good as new. My wife thinks i'm the greatest. Thanks,Tommy

take the old knob, insert the new one.

and the problem wsa solve

When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.