3RAWZ480ESQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Our dryer produced no heat. I thought that it was the electrical heating element because this part had failed a number of years ago. But when we received the heating element, and I opened up the back of the dryer to install it, I found that the element was OK. (Visual inspection as well as using an ohm meter.) I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit, (which was over a week in getting to us because Fed-Ex misdirected the shipment). Once the kit arrived it was very simple to remove the Allen-head screws on both parts, install the two new parts, reconnect the wires, replace the back panel on the dryer and hook up power and the dryer vent hose. The dryer works just fine.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

Tested the two thermostats, thermal fuse and the hi limit cut off for conductivity. The hi limit tested open. The others tested closed. Replaced the hi limit. Cleaned lint from the lint duct assembly after removing the two hex head screws that hold the assembly to the blower housing. The lint was packed in there solid. Cleaned up all around. Reassembled everything. Looks and works like brand new. Access was completely from the front panel. CAUTION: The rear panel is spot welded on although it has eight or nine hex head screws also, and when you remove them, the holes don't line up for replacing them. Took a lot of head scratching and time to get things lined up so the screws would go back in again. Don't try to remove the rear panel like the video shows.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Dropped new filter in.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

It was very easy to install the new parts successfully thanku parts select I will always keep using your business the representative was so helpful and understanding my problem I wish I could remember his name he was outstanding and a 100 thumbs up to him

After removing the exhaust pipe and clamp, I unscrewed the back panel with a 1/4 inch drive socket set. That exposed the wires and the wiring skematic. I used a multimeter to track the power to the element and found that no power was reaching the element. I then unplogged the unit removing all power and tested the resistance on each thermal fuse. The lower fuse had no resistance and the upper fuse did. I then disconnected the upper fuse, used a jumper wire the connect both wires together to bi-passed the fuse. I reconnected the power and turned on the dryer. The dryer element worked, confirming my suspicions of the bad fuse. Once I ordered the fuse and only paid for regular delivery I had the fuse with 24 hours and dryer back together within very little time. It took me more time to clean up the lint dust then it did to fix the problem.

Opened up back. Cleaned out lint. Turned on. Heater element went off after 1 minute. I shorted out heat sensor and heat element and stayed on. Got new part and works fine.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.

I replaced the thermal cut-off kit. To do this I removed the heating coil assembly. After carefully inspection of the coil I determined it may not need to be replaced so I had this out then replaced the thermal cut off and put everything back. The dryer has been working for two weeks.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!