3RAWZ480ESQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart
250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

unplug the dryer used nut drive to take the back off unhook the hose from dryer . disconnect the wires. remove the 2 screws from thermal cut -off . install the new parts

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Remove old filter
Vacuum out
Install new filter

Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

It's a electric dryer, I knew it was related with the thermal !

Unplug the machine. Take off back panel and remove heater assembly. Since I was already into the heating system, I replaced the heating element as well ($30). I replaced the old thermal cut off and overtemp, put the wires back on the connectors, reassembled, and the dryer works like it did when brand new! Within 30 minutes the repair was completed. Still saving for a new front loader washer/dryer, so the repair will hold us until we have enough to buy new. Alos, helped us to need to dry clothes on a clothes rack in the house. Good practice and lesson for the entire family!

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Watch the video before I received the part. Made it very simple to replace and which screws to take out.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.