DG170AXV2 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

We followed the video exactly. The video itself was simple and straight forward. Our model was a bit different than the video's example. The video's example had their spring action for the belt configured differently. When we finally figured out the difference, we were able to finish the job within minutes. The dryer now runs like new. We aren't mechanically inclined. That's why it took us so long. I still would recommend this company to anyone because it saved us time and money. The video really helps!

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.

Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.

There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.

after cutting the power, I used a putty knife to release the two holding clips ot remove the top,, 2 foward facing screws on either side of the front and two cap covered screws holding the bottom and unhooked the two electricial connections for the control panel and removed the front panel. Since this was a stack unit and in a closet most work had to be done from the front. By reaching inside to remove the belt from the motor,removing the drum was the easy part, to get to the bearing, but unfortunatly I had to remove the dryer from the closet to replace the back bearing clip and ball. After that replacing the bearing bracket and housing it was a breeze. Getting the unit back in the closet was a slight struggle, but it all worked out for the best got a chance to cleas behind the dryer, and the repaire was successful, phew.

put the new part on with ease took 5 min.

I replaced the latch on the body and on the door and it worked very well. I had to watch the video first. Thank you.

It was really easy to install the new roller with the newly designed side flange! All I had to do is hook in the tension spring. Works perfect again without the squeeking noise!

The video was very helpful. Glad I bought the entire kit. Dryer works great and no noise.

The customer had removed the top cover hinges and the rear cover plate to recover the broken belt. I first removed the four screws holding the front panel and tilted it out to allow access for the new belt. The drum dropped about 2-3". Fed the new belt over the drum with the printing'This Side Up' facing me, lifted the drum up as I closed the front cover over the felt on the front rim of the drum. Replace dhtew four screws. Door switch leads were long enough to allow the front cover to tilt forward so did not remove. Next engaged the motor pully and tension pulley, then rotated the drum manually to assure tracking and no twist in the belt. Vacuumed the wall passthrough pipe,the flex vent tubing and the motor compartment of lint. Closed up the back cover and drove the 52 miles back to my shop.

Exactly how the video showed! It was super easy and I am a girl...although I am a lil more mechanicly inclined than most girls, it was a piece of cake!

I remove the drum, and install the bearing just like the instructions in the video.

Watched video on you tube went to PartSelect web site determined it was the rear bearing from the probable causes listed. Received part in two days and the job took less than thirty minutes. The limited access to the belt motor was the only difficult part of the job but by putting the belt on the idler pulley first and pulling down on the belt I was able to get it over the motor pulley. Thanks PartSelect for making this job easier than I thought it would be.