EG1120 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

replaced the limit thermostat,thermal fuse, and cycling thermostat. Bingo. Problem solved. Noticed that the back of cycling thermostat had a buildup of lint and I'm wondering if that acted as insulation and caused a wrong reading of temperature. Did not have to disassemble dryer as I could reach all parts with lower front panel removed. To make it easer to install new parts with one hand I lightly hot glued the screws through the new parts and taped the upper portion of new part to bulkhead. With everything lined up and no need to hold the screws I was able to attach using one hand. It was a reach but easily done.

removed old element, relaced with new element , thermostat dryer works better than it has in along time

First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. Pryed up the top of the dryer at the front corners to free the front panel. Removed the two screws at the bottom front of the front panel. Then disconnected the three electrical connections for the door button. Put the front panel to the side. Then took out lint tray and then removed four screws that hold the lint blower piece and put it aside. Then I could see the motor and the idler assembly is on the back of it. If you have a camera take a picture of how the belt is on the pulley. If not you can draw a general idea of the direction. I reached back and slipped the belt off the idler pulley. Removed two screws from the front bottom of motor fork .Removed two screws from a small electrical hook up thats on the front of the motor and removed it. At this point I could just slide the motor out. With a rachet and a regular wrench I removed the small bolt holding the arm on. Put on the new arm. Slid the motor back in and reconnected the belt. Put everything back together in the same way. Yeah it works. I am a 58 year old woman and this job required no brute strength. Don't be intimidated its really not that difficult to fix it yourself.

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

replaced both fuses removed panel and removed fuses and checked for continuity and replaced with new fuses

Too simple to describe.

Unplugged the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the spring clips. Opened the top and photographed then disconnected the wires at the top of the terminal block. Removed the old power cord and terminal block. Installed new terminal block. Reconnected wires according to pictures. Installed new power cord.

Replaced Thermostat Boosting heater and Cycling Thermostat located behind the front blower cowling. I did not remove the wiring until I had the new part so that i could connect them in the proper order.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

I don't have the model number right now, but you video was fantastic.

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt