DV2C6BGWXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

I still had to take it apart there was a small sock stuck in the fan that blowes the lent out my wife left the lent filter out one time. Your video was a great help. I'm a mechanic and it was easy thanks Anthony Ratto Tulipbike82@aol.com

Followed video and YouTube most was easy.... put the hooking up the belt took time

Took off the back of the dryer and replaced the thermistor. A $7 part that would have been a couple hundred dollars if we had to call a repairman.

After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Since there were no troubleshooting steps, I had to start replacing the items according to the list that showed the parts that have fixed the problem for others. I ordered one at a time until I got the part that fixed the problem. I went through 4 parts before I replaced the gas solenoids which is what fixed the problem. By the time I was done, I could disassemble that dry in about 5 minutes or less.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

You know! I forgot exactly where it was i got the info to fix the problem but, "Parts select" was mentioned. Once I had an idea as to what to do I then, wasted time around town looking for the parts with no results. I then did what I should have at first an ordered the parts from Parts select. got them in the mail, lightning quick! I think I may have found the info here as well,not sure. (this site is awesome None the less) but the info led me to the Thermostat, I then jumped it as indicated and wham!! it ran. Order both the thermostat and thermistor. only problem I ran into was, removing the front display panel. broke some of the retaining clips off in the process. all in all, it was an easy fix that saved me a bunch of dough. greatfull to parts select for a speedy deliverie and to the website that made it possible. think it may have been here at the free repair help, section. awesome and highly recommended thanks!!!

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

I was working on my daughter’s Maytag dryer model MDE 9700 AYW. The dryer had been making a bumping sound for some time. It had the same symptoms a few years back, but it was still under warranty. The repairman had to replace a drum roller. He told her at the time he should replace all of them but he only had one with him. So when my daughter heard a similar sound she assumed it was a drum roller again so I ordered the roller without taking the dryer part. She has four boys that generate a lot of laundry, so she needs her dryer daily. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get the part or do the repairs. The roller arrived very quickly, I think in a couple of days. The drum rollers on the dryer did not need to be replaced. What I found was bumping the side to the dryer because the sheet metal had popped inward. The drum has very little clearance on either side. The side probably could’ve used another crease or something to make it more rigid. My time wasn’t, wasted. I think it was will spent. I found that 3+ years of lint at piled up significantly on everything. The lint on the shroud for the heating coil had already turned brown and could have caused a fire. I would suggest to anyone who’s had a dryer for a while should open it up and vacuum out the lint buildup.
It only takes a Phillips screwdriver and very little time. It’s a very little investment for your peace of mind.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.