DV206AGSXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Removed top of dryer, control panel, front (door) panel. Removed screw holding heating element and housing assembly in place, and removed wiring connections. Attached wiring to new heating element and housing assembly, installed screw to hold in place, replaced front (door) panel, control panel, and top of dryer.

replace Drum support roller & axel and belt

We unstacked our washer and dryer and needed dryer feet again.

I still had to take it apart there was a small sock stuck in the fan that blowes the lent out my wife left the lent filter out one time. Your video was a great help. I'm a mechanic and it was easy thanks Anthony Ratto Tulipbike82@aol.com

Took off the back of the dryer and replaced the thermistor. A $7 part that would have been a couple hundred dollars if we had to call a repairman.

Followed video and YouTube most was easy.... put the hooking up the belt took time

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!

The repair was pretty easy to install the heat element, but had to replace several other parts do to the manufacturer that had broke off

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

The lemon that I bought has forced me to open it up at least once a year. Anyone with a #2 phillips screwdriver and a good memory can take the challenge. Youtube has few videos on the same model. Best regards, Jim

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

I was working on my daughter’s Maytag dryer model MDE 9700 AYW. The dryer had been making a bumping sound for some time. It had the same symptoms a few years back, but it was still under warranty. The repairman had to replace a drum roller. He told her at the time he should replace all of them but he only had one with him. So when my daughter heard a similar sound she assumed it was a drum roller again so I ordered the roller without taking the dryer part. She has four boys that generate a lot of laundry, so she needs her dryer daily. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get the part or do the repairs. The roller arrived very quickly, I think in a couple of days. The drum rollers on the dryer did not need to be replaced. What I found was bumping the side to the dryer because the sheet metal had popped inward. The drum has very little clearance on either side. The side probably could’ve used another crease or something to make it more rigid. My time wasn’t, wasted. I think it was will spent. I found that 3+ years of lint at piled up significantly on everything. The lint on the shroud for the heating coil had already turned brown and could have caused a fire. I would suggest to anyone who’s had a dryer for a while should open it up and vacuum out the lint buildup.
It only takes a Phillips screwdriver and very little time. It’s a very little investment for your peace of mind.

Unplugged the dryer and moved into clear working space. Removed back access panel and exhaust tube, they are connected. Noted the wire connection placement before removing all wires connected to heating element. Removed the one hidden screw securing the element in the very back, cant be seen remove by feel. Then with some force sliding forward removed the heating element. Dissembled heating element housing to revel burned out element, noted wire connections before unplugging and removing old element. Reassembled all parts as they were removed and starting using the dryer.