DV338AEBXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

this site had a video that documented the process. The cabinet in the video was a little different than mine, but close enough to get me through the process. Unlike the video, my dryer was totally plugged with lint and I suspect that cut the airflow and caused the heater element to overheat and burn out. I cleaned all the lint and replaced the heater element just as the video documented. While I had the dryer apart, I lubed the drum rollers with Lithium grease and once assembled it worked perfect.

I purchased wholesale heater element with sensors. Couple wires and bolts to attach. Trickiest part is disassembling the dryer to remove the old heating unit. You-tube it; it's gold.

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

I pretty much followed the provided videos, but didn't remove the drum. That seemed a bit much. I was able to get the heating element out, and replace the Thermal Fuse and Thermostat. Dryer runs and heats like a top now!

I looked up the model number online, searching for the heating element. PartSelect not only had the easiest listing online to find the part, but they also offered a very user-friendly video to show you how to make the repair. The price for the part was roughly 10% less than any of the others listed online.

The part arrived in a few days, and I watched the video a few more times before deciding to tackle the project. I followed the video on a laptop sitting next to the dryer. It made the repair so easy. I was done in an hour and took the time to clean all the lint and debris from inside the dryer. I also cleaned the dryer vent from both inside and outside. The dryer works like brand new.

Your videos are that little extra that will keep me buying again and again.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

See Utube.com

I firstly over-ordered parts. The general guidance is check one part and replace if bad, then check the next, etc. I only wanted to do the disassembly once so I ordered all the parts which were involved with generating heat. Turned out the heater duct assembly came with the thermal fuse and thermistor already installed, in addition to the heating element. Once I had the parts, I watched the video which was identified in my parts order. Then I started disassembly. I put screws from each step into their own little container so there was no mixing them up. Everything went exactly as shown in the video, except for the front panel containing the control board. My dryer was slightly different, but still easy to get out. When I had the drum out, the heater duct assemble was easy to remove, one screw only. I transferred connecters from the old duct to the new one-at-a-time to make sure there were no mistakes, then installed the new one with the single screw. Re-assembly went quickly. I plugged it in and, with some hesitation, set it to a short timed cycle and started it. After a few minutes, I hit pause and stuck my hand in the drum and it was warm! The dryer has continued to work since. Repair successful!