MDG4000AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.

Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

Researched for the part numbers and found the parts needed. In this case the timer knob is made up of 3 separate pieces that easily snap together.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

pulled the motor and replaced it and not having any issues since.

Before I started, I pulled the dryer away from wall, unplugged it and removed the vent piping for good access to the back of the dryer. Then, I took out the screws holding the back plate of the control panel to the base. This revealed the inside of the control panel, and also allowed the panel to come loose--roll forward--for access. Then at the front of the control panel, I took the top center disk of the dryer dial out, and pulled off the dial itself. This revealed the timer post and the 2 hex-head screws holding the timer part in place. I removed the screws, the timer came loose. With the timer free and the replacement part in hand, I carefully pulled the wires from the old part and put them on the new one. Once completed, I loosely reinstalled the timer on the panel, set the panel in place, and plugged in the dryer to test the part before I completely buttoned up the control panel. It was at this point that I discovered the dial was loose on the new part. I looked at the old part and found a sleeve fitting on the post the dial slides onto. I removed it from the old, put it on the new, and now the dial fits snugly as it always had. Spun the dial, pushed the button, and the dryer works again! After cleaning dust collected over the years, I'm ready to finished tightening up the timer, and reinstalled the back plate. With the dryer ready for service, I took the extra step of cleaning the vent outlet on the bottom back of the dryer and installing new vent piping. Years of use can cause a build-up of lint, what better opportunity to clean this up? Finally done, I pushed the dryer back into place.

Pull the electric plug. With a nut driver and phillips screw driver remove two bolts and three screws on the rear access plate. Gently pull the knob from the front pannel and with the nut driver remove the two bolts under the knob. The timer is now loose from the drver. Match the wire plug codes on the old and new timers. Remove one wire at a time from the old timer with pliers and plug it onto the new timer on the same coded pin. Slide the timer back into the pannel and replace the two bolts that hold it. Replace the knob. Replace the three screws and two bolts holding the back pannel. Plug the electric cord back into the wall socket.

My 11 year old grandson and I did the repair together. He had a blast and I did too. First we removed a bunch of screws that got us no closer to getting the machine apart than when we started. Then I remembered from the last time I had the machine apart that there are two screws just below the door, angled as not to be visable unless you know where to look. Once we removed those the from came off. We removed the wires for the door light and heat sensor, remembering the order of the wires for later reinstallation. Then we undid the bolts holding down the top. Once the top was removed we took off the belt and removed the drum. We used the retainer pliers to remove the retainer ring from the first roller. We removed the roller and also the shaft as this roller was the noise maker and the shaft was not in reusable condition. We installed a new shaft, roller washer, roller, another roller washer and then the retainer ring. We repeated the same process on the other roller, although we did not replace the shaft as it was in good condition. It turned out I did not need to order the shaft washers as the rollers came with washers. Oh well, its not a good job unless you have parts left over when you are done. Once we replaced the rollers we commenced reinstallation. But first we had to google for diagram of the proper belt installation, which we found and that got the drum and belt installed properly. Thankd god for the internet. Once we had the drum installed we put the machine back together in the opposite order we took it apart. An operational test showed we did the job right, no more squeaking. The only injury was my grandson cut his thumb right after I gave him the speech about watching where your hand is going to end up when that bolt breaks free. It broke loose and into the metal bracket went his thumb. Oh well it was a good lesson and it was not a bad cut. All in all a good repair.

Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!