MDG12CSAAW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Took out the old lint filter and put in the new one. Works great

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

Replaced coils on gas valve.

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

After seeing how much it would cost to have a maytag guy come out & do it, I decided to look it up on this site & found it was reported to be an easy fix. It was very easy, just made sure the same connectors went into the same slots & switched them out (1 nut to remove & replace).

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

I looked for dryer repair videos on my computer. I found several and they all showed me that what was most likely broken was the tumbler belt. I didn't even know dryers had a belt. My dryer still turned on,and still produced heat. It just wouldn't rotate. One of the videos even used the exact Maytag dryer in their video that I had. After watching it a few times, I knew I could make this repair. I am pretty good at fixing things if I can first see it done. I had never taken a dryer apart before though. I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. I unscrewed the small access panel on the back of the dryer. This let me see the two belt pulleys back there. Then I went to the front and removed the two screws(my particular model) that held the front panel on and removed it. I then unscrewed the four screws holding on the front face plate in front of the tumbler. Next, I pulled the tumbler out, it is not screwed in. There was the broken belt. It took two days with regular shipping for the belt to come in. I put the tumbler back in, resting it on its two supports, placed the belt on, flat side down, and routed the belt through the pulleys in the back of the dryer exactly as it had been shown in the videos. I turned the tumbler clockwise two full rotations by hand to make sure the belt was seated correctly on the pulleys, and it was. I then screwed the face plate back on in front of the tumbler, put the front panel back on and screwed it in. I then reattached the back access panel. I plugged the dryer back in and turned it on. It worked. Though it may take a bit longer, this type of repair is about as easy as replacing a broken belt on a vacuum cleaner even for someone who has never done a dryer repair before. Watch a Repair Clinic video and if you enjoy fixing things, replacing a belt on a clothes dryer will be your next successful repair. It really is pretty easy.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.