MGDB950YG2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

I expected to find a broken blower belt so purchased that belt and the others I planned to replace since the on line instructions indicated that I had to pull the drum to replace the blower belt. I did not, so didn't use most of the parts at all. The instructions that came with the parts, were only slightly helpful because they were for a far different model. Some youtube videos were more help. I had to pop the top, which is easy and explained in the instructions, remove the front panel, which only requires removing two 5/16" small bolts, then lifting it up and off. Simple. With that panel off, I could see the blower belt and it was intact and seemed to work fine. I could have replaced it easily with no further disassembly at that point. However, since it was not blowing the air out of the dryer, I knew there was another problem. So I removed the front of the blower housing, which is four, 1/4" small bolts and it just pulls off. I could then see that the entire front of the blower was packed with lint that had gotten past the normal lint filter. I cleared that all out and checked that the blower itself was intact and clean and there were no other obstructions. When I rotated the blower by turning the motor, it moved easily. So I put it all back together without changing any parts and tested it. It worked perfectly again. I kept the parts for the next time I might need them.

Ordered new latch. Installed new latch into the dryer within one minute.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

I had two dryers, one was gas and the other was electric. The electric stopped heating. So I rolled out the gas dryer, but it was setup for natural gas and at this location, I only have propane. So I changed the jets to work with propane, in the process I broke the igniter, so I replaced that and that made the propane one work. Armed with the knowledge from that job, I took the electric dryer apart located the thermostat and replaced that and low and behold I have two working dryers. One for now and one for an emergency. I only have four screws left over!!!! Jim Cooke

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

The repair was easy. Shut off all power to the range, or unplug it. Remove the sheet metal back from the control panel using a nut driver or socket set. Pull the knob from the front of the control panel. Remove the two Phillips head screws that were hidden behind the knob. Pull the control switch out the back side of the control panel. Compare the old switch with the new one, to make absolutely sure you have the correct switch. Remove one wire at a time from the old switch and immediately install it in the exact same position on the new switch. When you have successfully transferred all of the wires from the old switch to the new switch, reinstall the new switch using the two Phillips screws. Reinstall the knob and the sheet metal cover. Plug the range back in, and/or turn the power back on. Trying boiling a pan of water to confirm that the repair resolved the issue.