MEDB980BW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

Ordered new latch. Installed new latch into the dryer within one minute.

I spent the most time researching and confirming exactly what part I needed before ordering the shipment. The illustrations and videos available on how to replace the part(s) were VERY helpful and much appreciated.

I followed the instructions seen on video and removed the top and front of dryer. Then pre-fit the new seal - and stretched it out some while dry to make sure it fit the drum. Once fitted, then I glued 1/2 of it and let it stand for at least 30 minutes and then did the 2nd 1/2 after that. I sure needed clips to hold it in place before moving on to complete both halves. Then I tested it and it tested ok.

I have only noticed 1 spot where some adhesive ran out that shows but it was minor. Had to figure out how the main drive belt work with the pressure pully because it had come loose from the drum. Once past that - it just needed reassembly.

replaced heating element

Well before ordering parts. I removed back panel with screw gun to locate issue noise. The I applied a real quilty spray lube to the tensioner an spun it a few times. Then put dryer back together and ordered parts. I'm waiting for the noise to return before I actually make the repair. Old saying if it's not broke don't fix it.

I expected to find a broken blower belt so purchased that belt and the others I planned to replace since the on line instructions indicated that I had to pull the drum to replace the blower belt. I did not, so didn't use most of the parts at all. The instructions that came with the parts, were only slightly helpful because they were for a far different model. Some youtube videos were more help. I had to pop the top, which is easy and explained in the instructions, remove the front panel, which only requires removing two 5/16" small bolts, then lifting it up and off. Simple. With that panel off, I could see the blower belt and it was intact and seemed to work fine. I could have replaced it easily with no further disassembly at that point. However, since it was not blowing the air out of the dryer, I knew there was another problem. So I removed the front of the blower housing, which is four, 1/4" small bolts and it just pulls off. I could then see that the entire front of the blower was packed with lint that had gotten past the normal lint filter. I cleared that all out and checked that the blower itself was intact and clean and there were no other obstructions. When I rotated the blower by turning the motor, it moved easily. So I put it all back together without changing any parts and tested it. It worked perfectly again. I kept the parts for the next time I might need them.

First, lift top by pushing in the 2 locking clips ( with the dryer door open), otherwise it won't lift.
Secondly, remove front cover by taking out 2 screws easily seen . If you see any electrical connectors, remove them.
Only thing a bit nightmarish was installing the new belt. It didn't seem long enough even though it was the original exact replacement. I got hair dryer blower, used on belt for 30 seconds, and mission accomplished.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

I went on the site and found the part I needed and then watched the video explaining how to dismantle, replace the part, and put the dryer back together. It was easy, especially with the video instructions.

The only challenging part was getting the old catch out. It can easily fall inside the door, not that this is really a problem, just leave it there. Using pliers get a good grip on the edge of the old catch and rock the top out, then pull to get the bottom out. There will now be an open hole. Align the new part with the open hole, and simply push it in. It will catch, and click into place. No tools are needed to install.

I removed the broken door catch with a screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to push the new door catch in place. It was an easy repair and saved me quite a bit of money.

The repair was easy. Shut off all power to the range, or unplug it. Remove the sheet metal back from the control panel using a nut driver or socket set. Pull the knob from the front of the control panel. Remove the two Phillips head screws that were hidden behind the knob. Pull the control switch out the back side of the control panel. Compare the old switch with the new one, to make absolutely sure you have the correct switch. Remove one wire at a time from the old switch and immediately install it in the exact same position on the new switch. When you have successfully transferred all of the wires from the old switch to the new switch, reinstall the new switch using the two Phillips screws. Reinstall the knob and the sheet metal cover. Plug the range back in, and/or turn the power back on. Trying boiling a pan of water to confirm that the repair resolved the issue.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.