MED7100DC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Pretty easy repair and I am not very handy. I believe they engineer these machines so you hire someone to do the job. They could place that part in an area where it is easier to get to, like a door on the side or something

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

first of all there is no video for this model dryer (cabrio accu-dry) the main difference is that the console is removed by removing 3 screws across the back top of console then using putty knife release spring fastener on each side ,slide forward and lift. remove one screw at top of control board and remove from plastic mount,and unplug connecting wires.remove top of cabinet lifting up and forward. The rest of install is typical to other models. The back panel doesn't come off this model. You have to access everything from the front.

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Removed the top of the unit. Then removed the control board by removing a few screws. Next was to take the top portion of the front of the unit away from the frame by removing the upper level of screws and loosening the lower row of screws. This allowed me space to clip out the faulty door switch and connect the new part. Put it back together and the unit sings like a bird with a worm!

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

I saw a couple of videos to replace this but found a simpler way to replace the heating element on my dryer. DISCONNECT the POWER.
I removed the lower panel (6 screws). Dis-connected two wires; one going to the heat sensor in the back and the other to the switch at the front. Removed the two screws to the metal plate in front of the heating element. Slid the whole heating assembly out. Removed the screws holding the heating element in the housing. Removed the failed (open) heating element and installed the new one. Reversed the process for re-assembly.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

I thought I had checked the arm piece of the rack real good for a product number on my original part but I missed the number till the 2nd box came in, and a looked real careful and realized it was the same as the order I thought was bad.
Put the spring arm in first and the rack will fit in the front groove.
It would have been good if there had been a picture of the dryer arm attached to the dryer.
So I have 2 good racks and will return one if you tell me where to send it.
Keith Walden..

Pretty much followed your great video: . Watching it gave me the confidence that I could accomplish the job myself.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.