MED7100DC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Took the two screws holding the lint trap to top. Used a putty knife to loose the clips holding the top of the dryer up so it could be hindged up for access. Used a nut driver to remove the four screws hold the front door on. Removed the lower dust panel, just clips holding in on. Pull the dryer drum out along with the broken belt and old belt tensioner. Took shop vac and cleaned lint and removed about $2.00 of loose change from the base. Installed the new drum supper wheels. Held belt around drum to put back in. Looped the belt through tensioner and around motor drive pulley as shown in instructions. Put front door on only to find the felt around the door had slipped making the drum hard to turn. Pulled the door back off and laid the dryer on it's back before putting the door back on , so you can run your hand around the door to make sure the felt go inside the drum. Put the four screws back in the door panel before uprighting the dryer. Sucess the drum turned freely. Put other remaining panel and srews in lint trap . Hook the dryer back up to vent, power and gas, and turned on the dryer. Runs like new!

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Followed the included instructions in the Maintenance kit. Very easy to understand & follow. Only advice is to have an extra set of hands to assist in re-installing drum w/ the new belt. Entire disassembly & reassembly could be done w/ basic hand tools but went alot quicker using a cordless drill w/ a set of nut/screw driver bits.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I thought I had checked the arm piece of the rack real good for a product number on my original part but I missed the number till the 2nd box came in, and a looked real careful and realized it was the same as the order I thought was bad.
Put the spring arm in first and the rack will fit in the front groove.
It would have been good if there had been a picture of the dryer arm attached to the dryer.
So I have 2 good racks and will return one if you tell me where to send it.
Keith Walden..

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Removed the top of the unit. Then removed the control board by removing a few screws. Next was to take the top portion of the front of the unit away from the frame by removing the upper level of screws and loosening the lower row of screws. This allowed me space to clip out the faulty door switch and connect the new part. Put it back together and the unit sings like a bird with a worm!

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Lubricated pulley wheel which temporary reduced noise. This verified what was making noise. Looked up the part on partselect.com and ordered it. Recieved idler pulley with bracket in just a few days.
Quickly removed back panel using nut driver with drill. Slipped belt off pulley, removed one screw with plyers to released spring and removed old assembly.
Inserted new assembly, connected spring, slipped belt back on roller.
Tested before replacing back panel.
All was very quiet. Replaced back panel.
All done

Turn off electric to unit.
Remove lint trap.
Remove lower cover below dryer door. 1 grey clip on either side. Bend upper portion of the clip down while pulling forward on panel.
Remove 4 1/4 inch bolts that hold blower duct to fan.
Push pulley upward while removing belt.
Use a small angled pick to remove pulley lock ring.
Install new washer and pulley. I added grease to pulley shaft.
Hope this helped. Good luck

followed the enclosed instructions, used a balled up towel to support the drum while attaching the belt and tension pulley, took about 20 minutes

My son did the repairs it took less than 30 minutes it's an old dryer so glad to be able to get the parts. I do not like the new dryers because of all the pushbuttons thanks so much for the ports