MED7100DC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Took the two screws holding the lint trap to top. Used a putty knife to loose the clips holding the top of the dryer up so it could be hindged up for access. Used a nut driver to remove the four screws hold the front door on. Removed the lower dust panel, just clips holding in on. Pull the dryer drum out along with the broken belt and old belt tensioner. Took shop vac and cleaned lint and removed about $2.00 of loose change from the base. Installed the new drum supper wheels. Held belt around drum to put back in. Looped the belt through tensioner and around motor drive pulley as shown in instructions. Put front door on only to find the felt around the door had slipped making the drum hard to turn. Pulled the door back off and laid the dryer on it's back before putting the door back on , so you can run your hand around the door to make sure the felt go inside the drum. Put the four screws back in the door panel before uprighting the dryer. Sucess the drum turned freely. Put other remaining panel and srews in lint trap . Hook the dryer back up to vent, power and gas, and turned on the dryer. Runs like new!

Followed the included instructions in the Maintenance kit. Very easy to understand & follow. Only advice is to have an extra set of hands to assist in re-installing drum w/ the new belt. Entire disassembly & reassembly could be done w/ basic hand tools but went alot quicker using a cordless drill w/ a set of nut/screw driver bits.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

My son did the repairs it took less than 30 minutes it's an old dryer so glad to be able to get the parts. I do not like the new dryers because of all the pushbuttons thanks so much for the ports

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Lubricated pulley wheel which temporary reduced noise. This verified what was making noise. Looked up the part on partselect.com and ordered it. Recieved idler pulley with bracket in just a few days.
Quickly removed back panel using nut driver with drill. Slipped belt off pulley, removed one screw with plyers to released spring and removed old assembly.
Inserted new assembly, connected spring, slipped belt back on roller.
Tested before replacing back panel.
All was very quiet. Replaced back panel.
All done

You tube

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

Pretty easy repair and I am not very handy. I believe they engineer these machines so you hire someone to do the job. They could place that part in an area where it is easier to get to, like a door on the side or something

flipped up the top pulled the front off easy access to drum removed the drum replaced rollers per instructions that came with package. very eas job. works great.

Watched the video, followed the printed instructions for reminder when necessary. Needed a second person briefly to hold the dryer tub when installing the new belt, and also when removing/replacing the front panel. Beyond that, it was straight forward and relataively easy to do. Solved the noise problems and it dries more evenly now as well. The one thing the instructions don't say is to check the rear canvas seal when the tub is re-inserted into place to assure it doesn't fold back on itself.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Opened the cabinet and removed the drum. Cleaned out the dryer fuzz. found that the roller stabilizer wasn't in place; apparently due to a previous repair. Replace both rollers and the roller stabilizer and prepared to replace the drum. But because I live alone, I didn't have anyone to hold the drum while I connected the belt to the motor. But, I did have three unused balloons which I partially inflated and set the drum on them in the bottom of the cabinet while I hooked up the belt to the motor. Put everything back together and it is now drying my clothes again. :)