MEDB400VQ0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

We have a very early model of the He3. We had to follow directions for the He2 model to replace the heater element and thermostat. Access is easy through the front panel, but removing and replacing the element required some force and maneuvering in a small area.

We replaced both the element and the thermostat since we had the entire part disconnected and removed. So far working great!

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Opened front of dryer and replaced switch.
Best part was ordering and receiving switch in two days. You guys really do ship the same day as ordered.

The only challenging part was getting the old catch out. It can easily fall inside the door, not that this is really a problem, just leave it there. Using pliers get a good grip on the edge of the old catch and rock the top out, then pull to get the bottom out. There will now be an open hole. Align the new part with the open hole, and simply push it in. It will catch, and click into place. No tools are needed to install.

I removed the broken door catch with a screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to push the new door catch in place. It was an easy repair and saved me quite a bit of money.

The repair was easy. Shut off all power to the range, or unplug it. Remove the sheet metal back from the control panel using a nut driver or socket set. Pull the knob from the front of the control panel. Remove the two Phillips head screws that were hidden behind the knob. Pull the control switch out the back side of the control panel. Compare the old switch with the new one, to make absolutely sure you have the correct switch. Remove one wire at a time from the old switch and immediately install it in the exact same position on the new switch. When you have successfully transferred all of the wires from the old switch to the new switch, reinstall the new switch using the two Phillips screws. Reinstall the knob and the sheet metal cover. Plug the range back in, and/or turn the power back on. Trying boiling a pan of water to confirm that the repair resolved the issue.

I followed the video provided by ‘Partselect’; although it was not the exact model it was close enough to get the job done with high confidence.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.