MDE5500AZQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.

The YouTube video on how to replace the baffels was excellent. After watching the video, it was a piece of cake.

Removed door and front and drum. Removed fan assembly. Be careful when working fan off of motor shaft. Unhooked wiring from motor. Removed clips. Replaced motor. Reverse procedure to put dryer back together. Now works like new. Very, very, happy. Part came in 2 days using standard shipping. Way better than buying a new dryer.

Save the money and buy the part with partselect. My dryer problem was obvious. Before I purchased the part I jumped on YOUtube to see if there was a repair video that matched my problem. FRIELINK5 had a very thorough video. This guy did it with one hand and overall it looked easy. Then I ordered the part. When it arrived I gathered all of the tools first. Rewatched the youtube video, then installed the part. I recommend going through parts select problem determination if you do not know what is wrong. Follow the instructions and purchase the part. I saved probably over $125. House call 50$ + Labor and part $100 from a service call. TRY IT save money.

The repair was very simple.I removed the door and the front cover.Right in front of the blower housing sat the temperature control thermistor.All that was needed to do the swap was a nut driver.Everything I read said the high limit thermostat may of been bad but it was fine.Ordering the parts was easy and fast all I needed was the model number and all the charts and numbers were easy to find.Thank you Parts select..

Took off the front, took thd drum off, removed old belt, placed on new belt ptu everything back together.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.

This problem was the result of a lighting strike that actaully happened a year ago. The dryer still worked but there was a special routine to get it to start. It finally would not start at all and i assumed and ordered the control unit and it arrived the next day. It took just about five minutes to install, just remove to the old board and disconnect the plug-ins and tighten a few screws, much easier and less expensive than calling a service technician

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

Went smoothly. Took the opportunity to vacuum out entire cabinet. Also removed tumbler vanes inside dryer as coins had made their way into them. The only other suggestion I have is that I didn't notice cabinet screws were different lengths till I started reassembly. Might be smart to label and separate them

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

Disassembled dryer and replaced drum support roller and shaft. That took care of the noise but I still replaced the belt and idler pulley while I had it apart.

Removed door, then brackets holding top panel to side exposed after removing door. Lifted top panel to expose dryer chamber. Rotated chamber to access outside screws holding broken baffle. Removed and replaced baffle. Closed top lid, reattached to side. Replaced door. When reattaching top lid, do not tighten H/W just yet. You'll have to maneuver the hooks into place for the door to reattach. Then tighten when in place.

Unplug dryer cord!!! Loosen and removed screws (phillips and hex head) at the back of the console(display). This allows for the removal of the console. Remove control board and replace with new part. The harness wiring is easier installed with the drum removed; 1. Remove dryer lid by taking out 2 screws securing the hinges. 2. Remove 2 screws at the left side to allow removal of the front panel. (Note that there are wirings in the front panel, so it is best to just set the panel close by for rewiring) 3. This expose the 3/8" hex screws securing the hook holding the top panel. Remove screws and lift top panel for removal. 4. Loosen drum belt with the idler and remove drum for easier access to the wirings. 5. Remove old harness and install the new replacement part placing corresponding terminal as the old ones are removed. (Note that the old harness can be completely stripped out then run the new harness-for the experts). While the heating elements and the motor are accessible, check with the multimeter to make sure none is grounded or shorted (remember the condition of the control board may have been caused by high current flow). Replace the drum and set the belt. Install top panel with the retainer hook. Install front panel and the dryer lid. Plug the dryer cord and run the appliance. Good job! Comment: the original control may have a design flaw (relay contact rating) as the components that draw higher amps(current) are fine yet the contacts including the wiring terminations were melted. Do you know if there was a recall on this product? It almost caused a fire. . .

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner