MDE3500AZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner

I simply put the new lint filter in the spot for it inside the door.

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

Went smoothly. Took the opportunity to vacuum out entire cabinet. Also removed tumbler vanes inside dryer as coins had made their way into them. The only other suggestion I have is that I didn't notice cabinet screws were different lengths till I started reassembly. Might be smart to label and separate them

I removed the knob and timer skirt after viewing the same on the parts diagram provided by PartSelect. This was very helpful. I ordered the new part, received it in just a few days, reinstalled the parts and everything works fine.

The key was the diagram provided so I knew exactly what to order and how the parts could be taken apart and reassembled.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

Followed the directions on the video. I recommend changing both tumbler wheels and idler pulley when you have unit apart as well as the drive belt. When I opened the dryer cabinet I immediately saw what my scraping noise was being caused by. A screw holding a baffle in the dryer tub had backed out and was scraping the cabinet wall on each rotated pass. Like I said, when you have the cabinet apart you might as well change parts that are going to fail. The repair was very easy and now I have many more years of service with my dryer. Had I opened the dryer before to see what parts I needed I would have seen the loose screw.

Disassembled dryer and replaced drum support roller and shaft. That took care of the noise but I still replaced the belt and idler pulley while I had it apart.

Removed door, then brackets holding top panel to side exposed after removing door. Lifted top panel to expose dryer chamber. Rotated chamber to access outside screws holding broken baffle. Removed and replaced baffle. Closed top lid, reattached to side. Replaced door. When reattaching top lid, do not tighten H/W just yet. You'll have to maneuver the hooks into place for the door to reattach. Then tighten when in place.

Following the instructions I pulled off the door and front panel. After rotating drum so the broken baffle was at the bottom I used a socket to remove the two screws on either end. I removed the broken baffle and inserted the new baffle in its place. Reinserted the screws, front panel, and door. I do strongly suggest having the manual handy to view the steps. It's available in PDF format.

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

I ordered the timer base knob, timer knob insert cap and the timer dial skirt. We put all three pieces together and put it on the D metal timer post. Good as new!

The dryer model was on a sticker inside the door which had long ago rubbed off. The most difficult part was figuring our how to dismantle the dryer. I finally looked up the matching washer by model number watched a youtube video and the dismantle was the same....take off the door, remove front cover then remove screws that held the hook brackets that held the top down. After we figured that out the rest was pretty easy. The main issue was the Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing. We decided to replace the rest of the parts because we already had the thing all apart. It is amazing all the lint that gets into the dryer cabinet and passed the lint filter. Dryer works like new again. I love this set and will keep repairing as long as we can get parts.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.