MDE12PSAGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

First I unplugged the dryer. Then, I took off the front cover, then a piece that holds the tumbler on. I put the new belt on and took a few minutes to make sure the belt was placed correctly. Lastly I put everything back on and plugged it back in. She started right up.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

Basically just followed the video instructions on this site. Only thing I did differently was rout the belt through the pulley via the back access panel. I also would recommend taking the belt out of the package right when you receive it and hang it on a hook overnight so gravity can pull out all the kinks (makes twisting on the drum less probable).

This was my first time doing any type of appliance repair and it was relatively easy...just scary and time consuming. Took me about an hour to take everything apart, replace belt and reassemble...but took me another hour to vacuum/blow out all the lint that had escaped into the chassis, motor, etc. I also recovered about $2 in change from the blower unit...I'M RICH!!!!!

I followed the instructions given by other DIYs. The rubber band for the belt was a great suggestion, however having no rubber band nearby, I used a zip-tie that worked out perfectly.

The only tool that I wished I had is a pair of split ring pliers. Not having a pair, used a pair of needle nose and a very small screw driver to provide the leverage to remove the washer.

After following the instructions that came with the belt on how to properly align it to the motor wheel and tension wheel, I plugged everything back in and started it up. Sounded like it was brand new.

I decided not to replace the rollers or drum guides as they looked to be in good shape.

I removed the two screws located on the front panel close to the bottom. I took the front panel off. Then I removed the four screws holding the framework in place in front of the tumbler. Then I removed two more screws, each located on the upper inside of the front of the top. Then I took the top off and set aside. Next, I took out the tumbler and put some oil on the rear rollers. I installed the belt around the pulley system located at the rear left side of the dryer. Then I stretched the belt around the tumbler, aligning it about 2 inches back from screws located towards the back of the tumbler. Afterward, I put everything back together.

Removed front cover screws at the bottom, using a stubby screwd river and a 2x4 under the front. Killed the circuit breaker at the panel, removed two wires on fron door. Removed 4 5/16 inch hex screws from drum front cover. Removed 6 1/4 inch hex screws from the cover over the fan blades. These are hard to reach in the back and left sides. I had to use my pliers and the nutdriver socket and my fingers to get them out. Using the pliers I removced the retainer clip from the old fan blades and use the tips of my long nosed pliers to remove the C-clip from the end of the motor shaft, ruining my old pair of pliers. ($15 for a new c-clip retainer removal tool.) removed the old fan baldes, pushed the new blades onto the motor shaft,using a bit of force to pop it on. Replaced the C-clip and the new retainer clip. Replaced 5 of the 1/4 inch hex screws. The screw closest to the drum would not line up, being about 1/4 inch off. Didn't seem to make any difference. Made sure the drum was seated on the rear rollers and replaced the drum front cover, making sure the air tube was seated in the front of the fan assembly. Replaced the 4 5/16 inch hex screws, routed the front door wires behind this piece and replaced the wires on the door switch. Pushed the front door up into the upper cover, lowered the bottom into place and repalaced the two front screws. Reomved the 2x4 and reset the circuit breaker at the panel. Tested the dryer, noting that the noise had stopped. Totat time about 40 minutes.

Removed front cover. 2 screws front bottom. replaced belt using mark on drum to locate belt as close as possible on drum. Replaced idler assy spring from rear acess cover. attached belt to motor pulley. Tested before installing front cover. Piece of cake.

Remove the two screws under the door, lifted front panel outward and pulled it free at the top, removed the lint trap assembly ( 4 screws). I pulled the entire dryer drum out and cleaned out the inside o fhte dryer cabinet. Gettting the belt to track correctly took a little fiddling- I had to take the small panel off the back to access the motor pulley to feel the belt and get it set on the drum in the correct spot.

Overall, installing a new belt was fairly easy.

I removed the two screws holding the front cover and set the cover aside, then the two screws at the top of the dryer and unplugged and tagged wires going to the front panel and door assembly and set the front door and panel aside. Next I removed the 4 screws inside the tub attaching the lint filter and exhaust duct, and then the screws holding the blower cover. Then I removed the snap ring holding the blower to the motor shaft and pulled the blower off, slid the new blower on, and reinstalled the snap ring. While the unit was apart, since the lint filter felt gasket was out, I cleaned the gasket groove and cemented the gasket in place with Gorilla Glue. Finally, I reassembled all parts.

Well lots of other people here described the process and thats basically what I did.
Unscrewed the front of the dryer and behold the mountains of filth, lost toys, and spare change. Unplugged the dryer. Did some basic cleaning but wanted to get to the matter at hand.
Unscrewed the lint trap - realized I did not need to and put it back on. Unscrewed the 4 screws holding the drum and pulled the front off.
I just cut the old belt off. It was cracked and about to go. Put the new belt on and snaked it back into place. Opened up the back hatch and got it into place via the diagram. (It was spot on)
Put it all back together, plugged it in and started it up.
Hmmmm.. a odd rubbing noise.
Took the front off and looked around. Things looked fine. Checked the belt and started making sure it was working right.

NOTE!!!!!!! It is plugged in at this time you idiot.

Ok, so im trying to get the belt in the right spot and checking how the drum turns when i pull the belt. Well my arm touches the contacts for the dryer element and shocks me. Natural reaction is to yank my hand out as fast as I can. In doing so I punch a nice big gash into my palm. So laying on the floor, shocked, bleating, and its a flithy cut with lint in it.
Yeah me!!

After stopping the bleeding and cleaning it with peroxide I got back to it the next day.

I had the belt IN the grove of the drum. I messed around and moved it OUT of the grove. Worked perfect. While it was in the grove there was not enough tension. Moving it to the main drum tightened and had it go perfectly.

As per video instructions we took off front and removed drum. We only changed one of the roller support wheel as I could not find any information as to how many I need for my type dryer and parts diagram was deceptive. Showed only one drum support roller.

Disconnect Power - Slide dryer away from wall to allow access to front & rear - Remove 2 screws on lower part of front panel - Slide small screwdriver under top cover to release 2 spring clips - remove front panel (disconnect 2 wires at the door switch) - remove 2 5/16 screws and remove lint trap & piping - lift tub and work the belt rearward as you remove tub - remove belt (make note of the belt routing) - use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring that retains Drum support roller - Remove and replace roller (there are 2 rollers, but usually only 1 needs replacing) - Reverse for assembly - (Note: you will need to remove the lower right hand cover (rear of dryer 2 1/4 screws) to gain access to the motor for belt installation)

I watched the instructional video-it was extremely helpful! I have no experience with taking apart or fixing a dryer, but the video showed me everything I needed to do. It took me 1-2 hours, but I think it only took so long because my dryer was disgusting inside (full of many years of lint and dog hair) and a lot of that time was spent cleaning it. I was thrilled that I only had to spend $20 (including shipping) and a couple hours and now it runs great! I looked up the model-it's from 1985! A new dryer is not something I'm excited to spend my money on, so now I'm going to come back to this website if anything else goes wrong and fix it myself!

My stack/washer dryer combo is 1994 vintage, so I discovered the hard way that the instructions on this site, on web videos and that came with the part miss a few points. Most notably, that there is no back panel to open to get to the motor easily to loop the belt around. Instead, after repeated failures to first loop around the drum and then thread around the motor spindle, I tried a different approach. It was just too hard from the front to hold everything in place and "feel" my way to thread it properly. So I tried doing the belt around the motor spindle and tensioner first, then getting the remaining big loop started around the drum, which I rolled to feed the rest of it around, eventually completing that. I then rolled to adjust the belt more toward the center of the drum. Once in the proper track I could tighten the drum in place. BTW, the electronics are not modular and easily unhooked and recooked up as in later models. Had to let connections lie open on washer top as I did the work. So in the process a soldered connection to dryer flame sensor (part # 63033770) fell off. Dryer would turn but not heat. Had to order that part and reconnect. Now all is good again. Clearly though, the days for my washer/dryer are numbered since fewer and fewer parts are available.