MDE8426AAW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

I looked at this website and found the symptoms, noisy, and no heat or not enough heat. I ordered the recommended parts. They were the drum support roller kit, idler pulley wheel and bearing, high limit thermostat, and lastly the front glide kit. I had anticipated having to use all of these parts. Upon following the instructions in the videos (couldn't ask for better instructions) I disassembled the dryer to see how bad everything was before replacing the parts. The left drum support roller spun easily, but had a little roughness and slight noise, the right one spun easily but not like I thought a new one would have spun, the idler pulley was stiff and very noisy. The thermostats all seemed to be in good shape (had continuity). I cleaned the bearings and shafts of all of the rollers with alcohol, paper towels and cotton swabs. The bearings and shafts all looked like new, so I lubed them with a slight amount of high temperature grease and reassembled the rollers. They moved smoothly and quietly. The fan was quite full of lint, even cleaning the filter after every load does not stop all of the lint. It has been in use probably over 10 years. After everything was back together, it runs like a well oiled sewing machine and has been drying well. I did return the parts unopened. This would not have been so successful without the videos. Thanks to all of you.

I ordered the timer base knob, timer knob insert cap and the timer dial skirt. We put all three pieces together and put it on the D metal timer post. Good as new!

I was able to quickly make this repair with the help of some instructions that I found on this site on how to remove the front panel of my dryer. 4 screws on the front around the door (and removal of the door) and then it was simply a matter of rolling the top portion out to pop it out of some clips and then the front panel opened toward me and I was able to lift it off of the metal fingers that secure it on the bottom. Removing the old baffle was a matter of removing two screws with a nutdriver and installation of the new baffle was a breeze. All in all I was done start to finish in under 10 minutes.

Just took the old one out and put the new one in! Fit perfectly! Very happy with your service and part came super quick!

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

i removed the 2 screws holding the door hindges on. then i removed the 2 adjasent screws to remove the front door panel. i rotated the drum to aceses the screws holding the baffle and installed the baffle .

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

Replaced damaged parts and recommended parts normally causing the problem. Dryer is working again like new. I expended $112 rather than $600 for a new equipment. Good deal!

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually the idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.

Initially I thought let me call so and so but then I thought, "wait, let me google the model and make and I looked up what I thought might be the part. So for $15.00 I fixed my dryer. I was very proud of myself and my husband was happy I saved him money!

The dryer started making a screeching/squealing noise…when it became unbearable, I decided to research the problem and found this website - it was tremendously helpful.

Based on what I found, I decided to order two drum rollers and two shafts – hoping that would solve the problem. My husband and I disassembled the dryer and replaced those parts. We also vacuumed the unit and wiped down the 10 years of gunk. Honestly I am surprised we have not had a fire given the amount of dust/lint inside the unit. I also took the opportunity to give the vent a good cleaning as well.

We put the unit back together, turned it on and listened to the quiet hum of our renewed dryer. Until about 15 minutes later and then the screeching/squealing started again. Kicking myself for not ordering the idler arm and shaft as well as the idler pulley wheel and bearing the first time – I went online and placed another order.

We took the unit apart a second time. We did inspect the pulley the previous time, but it appeared in good working order. Not seized like some of the other posts mentioned. Upon further inspection, it did seem to make a squealing noise when we wiggled it – duh!

The unit was put back together, quietly doing it’s job and we feel confident that we will get a few more years out of it. The videos were extremely helpful as were the posts from other do-it-yourselfers. We saved a lot of money with this fix.

Good luck!

BTW - The Lint Filter was not a problem - I just thought after 10 years, we could use a new one. I laughed when I saw the repair video on it!

Unplugged dryer. Removed dryer door with philips screwdriver. Removed front dryer panel aftr loosening philips screws on each side of door. Then at top right corners I used a nutdriver to remove clips/hooks that hold down top of dryer. I then lifted top of dryer up- it is hinged at back. I could then manually turn drum to access screws that hold baffles. I held each baffle in place with left hand and turned in screws with right hand until tight, using nut driver. I vacuumed out inside of dryer. Reassembled top, front panels and door. plugged in and tested. All good.

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.