MLG23PDAGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.

AS it turned out the problem was not the igniter but the timer of which we figured out how to force it to work but now we will be ordering the part from your great company.
Thanks for everything.
Carolyn Richrath

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

As per video instructions we took off front and removed drum. We only changed one of the roller support wheel as I could not find any information as to how many I need for my type dryer and parts diagram was deceptive. Showed only one drum support roller.

I re-assembled, checked felts, and wear blocks,(good condition). I cleaned lint, removed coins from baffles, corrected several dents(minor), double checked wire condition and routing (good), finished re-installation, checked balance . all was good, and ran two loads of laundry. very quiet! Thanks

I've had this dryer since it was new It's over 25 years old. and it started to make a high pitch squealing sound when in use. Decided it's time to repair it. a new one is very expensive. So I ordered the parts from this site. When the parts arrived they where Inspected for fit, function and finish. So I proceeded with doing the repair myself. Short Phillips screw driver to remove the two sheet metal screws at the bottom front panel. tilted the panel from the bottom outward and removed it from the main tumbler cabinet. labeled the door switch wires one was yellow & one white. so I would not reinstall them incorrectly upon assembly. removed the front panel. set it aside. then removed the bulkhead panel 5/16" screw in each corner. removed that and set it aside. and there she was, the tumbler. I pulled the tensioner up to loosen the belt, and removed it. then grabbed the tumbler from the inside top slightly picked it upward and slid it out of the cabinet exposing the two rollers and axles one on each side that it sits on. at that point I noticed the drive belt was frayed and slightly worn. came back in the house and got on line ordered a new one from Parts Select it showed up a day later and a perfect match. the rollers are held in place by snap rings at the end of the axles. squeeze them they come off real easy, and on the back side there's a 14mm hex head nut. box wrench works good here to loosen the nut and remove the axles. the original washers are metallic and worn badly, they where making the high pitched squealing sound when they rotated so they came off and where replaced by the ones in the new roller kit and lubed with graphite not oil or grease. Graphite is dry and does not collect all the dirt and debris. put the new washers, new rollers & snap rings back on the axles grooves on the end, hand spun them and they where ready to roll. took the new belt placed it around the tumbler over the exact witness marks that where there so it would line up and lifted the tumbler back into the cabinet aligned the new belt over the motor pulley and tensioner lining it up exactly on the witness marks left by the old belt. slowly slid the tumbler back on to the new rollers rotated the tumbler a couple rotations clockwise to set the belt put the bulkhead back on the front with 5/16" sheet metal screws. in 4 corners, reinstalled the from panel along with the door switch wires and it was done. now the moment of truth. plug the machine in and turn it on!. Bingo! it runs so well you don't know it's even running. after this repair the machine performs even better. it actually takes LESS time for clothes to dry! AJS

I removed and replaced all the problem pieces, and now she runs better then when I got her!

Replaced rear drum rollers and drum belt. Would have been impossible to do unless I had watched the video. [Re-watched video 4 times during repair to make sure of what I was doing.] dryer now works fine. Dryer did throw off a lot of lot dryer felt lint during first post repair use. Customers should let it run one empty cycle after repair.

looked at video on your web site my wife and I decided to try it ourselves we are 70 and 71 And I am in a wheelchair just had surgery so we ordered parts. received parts looked at repair video a couple of times and went for it. during process we had some moments of frustration but we went back to video. end result, screech is gone. could not have done it with out video thanks.

Replaced high limit sensor, which tested as bad, hence replaced
Replaced both solinoids as one tested bad. Best to replace both
Tested flame sensor, was good
Igniter, functioning properly
Gas delivery good burner lighting
Most significantly, Cleaned 25’ verticals dryer vent with drill driven brush. Incredibly dirty. Suspect this was a huge contributing factor in dryer heating issues. 17 years of dryer usage resulted in significant lint buildup in vent.
Check your vent thoroughly!!
Dryer heating again

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.