LDE7304AGL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Replaced with new part from PartSelect . Works Fine.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

I happened to come across a repair story posted by Wayne From Minneapolis MN about how he reinstalled the tumbler, plugged the dryer in, and started it up but forgot the belt and realized that it was the blower wheel that was loose on the shaft. As soon as I read that, I said, "Yes! that's it!" So I ordered the blower wheel and a belt. I decided to replace the belt since I saw it was slightly frayed. After all, the dryer is almost 20 years old!

First, switched off the power to the dryer or disconnect it from the outlet. Took the front panel off by removing the two screws near the bottom of the dryer. Pulled the bottom of the panel out and the two clips on the top just disengaged easily. Be careful, there are two wires connected to this panel. Just rotated it to the left and let it rest vertically. If need be, the two wires can be removed easily.

Next, I removed the four screws to take out the front tumbler and the tumbler. Set them aside. Then I removed the belt. You might want to pay attention as to how the belt goes around the motor pulley and the idler pulley before removing the belt.

After nearly 20 years, I'm surprised that it wasn't full of lint and dust. Gave it a good vacuuming and clean up.

Next, I removed the blower cover, the retaining ring, the hub clip, and the blower wheel. Installed the new blower wheel, hub clip, and here's the challenging task without the proper tool - putting the retaining ring back on the shaft! It took me about 5 minutes to put it back on the shaft with a small flat-head screw driver and an awl. Reinstalled the blower cover.

Next, I put the new belt over the pulleys and loosely hung the belt on the back tumbler to hold it up. Then I put the tumbler back in and worked the belt over the tumbler. I let the belt sat in the groove of the tumbler first and then when the tumbler was in position, I worked the belt over the two pulleys in to the proper position. Then I moved the belt to strap over the top of the tumbler. At this point, I just rolled the tumbler with my hand when part of the belt was out of the groove and on top of the tumbler. The motion took care of getting the rest of the belt out of the groove and on top of the tumbler as it should be located. Reinstalled the front tumbler and then the front panel.

Powered it back up and started the dryer and viola! the rumbling noise was not to be heard. Just like it used to sound - a low humming noise. Thanks Partselect.com for the helpful repair stories and the speed in getting the parts to me.

First I unplugged the dryer. Then, I took off the front cover, then a piece that holds the tumbler on. I put the new belt on and took a few minutes to make sure the belt was placed correctly. Lastly I put everything back on and plugged it back in. She started right up.

Remove the two screws that hold the front cover. Remove front cover and disconneted wiring to door switch.Remove the cover ( lower right hand corner )back of the dryer to gain access to belt idler pulley/tensioner. Remove old belt and slide new belt on the tumbler.

The service from PartsSlect was outstanding.
Parts arrived next day and where OEM. I had the
dryer cleaned and operational in 1.5 Hr's
Keep up the great service.



Thank You

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

My stack/washer dryer combo is 1994 vintage, so I discovered the hard way that the instructions on this site, on web videos and that came with the part miss a few points. Most notably, that there is no back panel to open to get to the motor easily to loop the belt around. Instead, after repeated failures to first loop around the drum and then thread around the motor spindle, I tried a different approach. It was just too hard from the front to hold everything in place and "feel" my way to thread it properly. So I tried doing the belt around the motor spindle and tensioner first, then getting the remaining big loop started around the drum, which I rolled to feed the rest of it around, eventually completing that. I then rolled to adjust the belt more toward the center of the drum. Once in the proper track I could tighten the drum in place. BTW, the electronics are not modular and easily unhooked and recooked up as in later models. Had to let connections lie open on washer top as I did the work. So in the process a soldered connection to dryer flame sensor (part # 63033770) fell off. Dryer would turn but not heat. Had to order that part and reconnect. Now all is good again. Clearly though, the days for my washer/dryer are numbered since fewer and fewer parts are available.

As per video instructions we took off front and removed drum. We only changed one of the roller support wheel as I could not find any information as to how many I need for my type dryer and parts diagram was deceptive. Showed only one drum support roller.

Disconnect Power - Slide dryer away from wall to allow access to front & rear - Remove 2 screws on lower part of front panel - Slide small screwdriver under top cover to release 2 spring clips - remove front panel (disconnect 2 wires at the door switch) - remove 2 5/16 screws and remove lint trap & piping - lift tub and work the belt rearward as you remove tub - remove belt (make note of the belt routing) - use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring that retains Drum support roller - Remove and replace roller (there are 2 rollers, but usually only 1 needs replacing) - Reverse for assembly - (Note: you will need to remove the lower right hand cover (rear of dryer 2 1/4 screws) to gain access to the motor for belt installation)

After removing dryer front, remove several metal shields(ouch sharp!). Remove clamp and keeper ring and blower wheel. Then remember where all those screws came from. If I did it again I would put a spacer washer behind the blower wheel which is not in the original design. This might prevent this happening again.

There was a rhythmic loud banging noise coming from our dryer (sounded like there was a sneaker going around in the drum). After reading several diagnostic recommendations, assumed it was either the drum belt or one of the guide rollers, but these were found to be OK after opening the front panel. The noise was coming from the blower fan- the center D-shaped hub that connects to the motor shaft had snapped, causing the fan to wobble when running, not what was expected. Had to then place another order for the blower fan part, which was replaced along with a new belt, drum guides and new rollers. Cleaned out a lot of dust and lint, especially around the motor. Re-assembled, and now works like new.