MLE23MNFYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Firts I had to take all the front parts off using a screwdriver and nutdriver then I loossen the belt to get the drum out then I had to use snapping ring pliers to remove the rollers and put the new ones in I cleaned the inside of the dryer then I put everything back in place. After all that I tested it and it worked really good it took me about an hour to do all that

I had to remove the door first. Then the retaining brackets that hold the upper lid on. This also allowed removal of the front cover. After releasing the tension of the drum belt, I removed the drum and replaced the drum roller in suspect. Installation was reverse in order. Don't know why I waited so long to do such a simple job.

The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.

Removed the door then removed front panel then removed 8 screws that held the drum in. At this point reached in and removed the snap ring on the wheels and replaced the washers and wheels. Then reassembled it.

First thing to do. . . . Unplug the machine. After that, remove the top 2 screws from the cover from between the washing machine and the dryer and remove cover. Then remove the 2 screws from the top of the front dryer cabinet, pull front cover out slightly and gently let it lay forward. From this point, you can look in and see the drum rollers. Behind the rollers on the roller shaft is a 1/2" nut. Use a 1/2" gearwrench to remove the nut, and pull the shaft with roller attached out forward. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring, take off old roller with bushings, and replace with new. To re-install shaft with new roller, you will have to lift the drum slightly to give yourself enough room. Re-assemble the front of machine (note: be careful of the wiring on the control panel, as some connectors may have pulled loose. Make sure they are all connected before replacing front of machine). Plug machine in and test it out. While you have the machine open, use a good vacuum cleaner and remove the lint that you will find inside the machine. Depending on how old the machine is, you should find quite a bit.

first, i removed two screws at the bottom of front panel. then lifted from the bottom removing it. next, removed drum surround and drum. next , removed right roller and roller shaft. then installed new shaft, slide roller back on shaft. next reinstalled drum, drum surround and front panel. Now so quiet you can hardly hear it run, also my sister says it drys much faster.

First I removed the two screws on the front panel that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3" and disconnected the two wires. Find out the roller broken. Place an order with Partselect from friend recommendation. Fast delivery, replace the broken roller, reverse the process and test the sound of the dryer. Very satisfied with the parts. Thanks!

Remove the door and front cover ,then the top flips up ,remove the front drum support then the drum,remove the snap ring and the pulley

My son did the repair work. He took off the door and then carefully unhooked the belt and removed the drum. Replacement on the drum roller kit went smooth, and he then oiled the idler pulley while he was in there. I now have a "quiet dryer" once again!!! Had orderd the wrong part to begin with, but was very easy to return, receive my credit and get the "right" replacement part.
Great Service!!!!

Went on line and got a diagram of the dryer. Removed four screws around the door. Removed the door and then the front cover. The toughest part was removing the drum. Once I got that out of the way replacing the rollers was easy. Re installed the drum. The belt was a little tricky but worked. Then replaced the front of the dryer and the door. The dryer works fine now and no more noise. Pretty easy.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

I followed the YouTube video for pulling the heating element to remove and place the thermostat. The actual thermostat removal and replacement was pretty simple. Most of my time was spent removing the front panel, pulling and reinstalling the heating element.

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.

I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

i took off the door and the front of the drum and removed the drum. I removed the locking clip from idler pully and replaced and lubricated the shaft and slid the new idler pully on. I hung the belt over the back and put the drum back in and aligned the belt and turned by hand to get the belt in the correct position. Belt came off a couple of times because i think the belt was twisted. installed the front panel and the door, plugged the cord in and started it up and it was perfect.