MLE23PRAYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

I watched the video

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.

Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.

After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.

Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.

Did an internet search for parts for my older Maytag dryer. Landed on PartSelect and man I am glad I did! Entered my model number and boom! Complete schematics on the dryer, with part numbers. Also have diagnostic questions to point you in the right direction. Figured out what parts I needed, ordered via phone. Fantastic customer service. PartSelect also has excellent installation videos you can watch to assist. Took me a little over an hour to open up the dryer, replace the drum rollers, drum belt, idler roller and both front and rear felt seals. Buttoned dryer back up, hit the run switch and it purs like brand new. I cannot recommend PartSelect to highly. Great company, great customer service, quick shipping.

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

Watch the video. Very, very easy

removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps