MDG10CSABL Maytag Dryer - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jack from Memphis, TN
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The dryer door latch was broken.
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Tara from North Canton, OH
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Female End Of The Door Catch Broke
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Scott from Sacramento, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Charles from Long Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
No heat...
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- William from Winter Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3037050
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Squealing noise on start up.
I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Dale from Livingston, TX
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Door wasn't staying closed
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Todd from Chagrin Falls, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP33001275
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Drying time was messing up (too short)
After seeing how much it would cost to have a maytag guy come out & do it, I decided to look it up on this site & found it was reported to be an easy fix. It was very easy, just made sure the same connectors went into the same slots & switched them out (1 nut to remove & replace).
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Loud, rumbling noise
1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- John from Floyd, VA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Too much drying time, not hot enough
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
Good trouble shooting information.
Good trouble shooting information.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Tom from Schaumburg, IL
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- chuck from smithtown, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer heat would go off and timer would not move. Dryer would continuously run
Replaced coils on gas valve.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- CHUCK from HARDIN, KY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
ignitor failed to ignite gas or would fail to after first ignition.
Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Alan from Pacific Palisades, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP33002970
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lint filter was frayed
used a utility knife to open the box in which the part was shipped, discarded the old filter and inserted the new one
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Joseph from Colts Neck, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced door switch
Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Drum would not turn, drive motor humming loudly and unable to turn drum/blower wheel
The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!