MLE15PRAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gene from Virginia Beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3705180, WP6-3700340, WPY312527, WPY014874, WP33002535, WP315772, WP354987
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer made loud screeching noise.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
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- Customer:
- james from CAMBRIDGE, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP33001762, W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Will not start all lights on,makes a ping sound on the control panel when you push the start button
Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch
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- Customer:
- John from Warsaw, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.
Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
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- Customer:
- richard from pleasant valley, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
door switch broke
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
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- Customer:
- William from Placerville, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP306199
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer stopped heating up.
Dryer stopped heating after a few days of it being an intermintant problem. I ohmed the heating coil and it was fine @ 12-15 ohms and the 2 sensors were open so I knew they were not the problem. The only item left was the Heater Relay. As soon as it was changed, dryer operated as it should.
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- Customer:
- Hazel from CONNERSVILLE, IN
- Parts Used:
- 12001541
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
noisy
I watched the video
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Blower wheel was wobbly about the shaft, producing a lot of vibration and noise.
Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
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- Customer:
- karl from monroe, GA
- Parts Used:
- 306436
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer would not stay closed.
I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!
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- Customer:
- claude from laguna niguel, CA
- Parts Used:
- 306436
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
missing, probably broken female latch part
Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!
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- Customer:
- Jim from Bellevue, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP33002535, W10410997, WP33001807, 12001541
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Motor burnt a phase
If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.
My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.
I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.
My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.
I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.
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- Customer:
- RODNEY from Spokane, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3129480, 33001801
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Terrible sqeel as dryer rotated.
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Grass Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP33002535
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
Burning rubber smell during heated dry cycle
Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!
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- Customer:
- Buck from FLORENCE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP33001807, 306508
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer making grinding noise, and spotting clothes with black dust.
Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.
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- Customer:
- Thurman from Huntsville, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3705180, WP6-3700340
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Squeaking noise while spinning
removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps
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Blower wheel had broken fins, motor bearings loose
This was fun! Kill the power!
Remove door, remove from panel, remove front drum support, remove drum and belt, remove blower cover, remove blower wheel, remove electrical connector from motor, take two clips off motor mount to remove motor. Put it all back in with new parts. 200 bucks and back in business. Go for it.
Bob
Remove door, remove from panel, remove front drum support, remove drum and belt, remove blower cover, remove blower wheel, remove electrical connector from motor, take two clips off motor mount to remove motor. Put it all back in with new parts. 200 bucks and back in business. Go for it.
Bob
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