MDE16PDAYA Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

I removed the dryer door and attaching hardware to other covers. Raise the top cover and prop it up. Remove the drum retaining cover and disconnect the door switch wires, making note of their locations. Release tension on idler and take belt off of motor. Pull the drum out with belt still around it. Vacuum lint and dust from inside cabinet. Use snapring pliers and remove the snaprings on the drum rollers. Remove the old rollers and washers, clean the shafts and apply a light film of oil on the shafts. Install new rollers and plastic washers on shafts and secure with snaprings. Remove the "E" clip from the idler shaft and remove the old roller. Clean and lube the shaft and install the new idler and clip. Place the new belt on the drum with the ribs against the drum. Put the drum in place and install the front drum retainer. Position the belt around the motor pully and tensioner. Rotate the drum to get the belt to track. Attach the remaining covers.

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

replaced

I ordered the wrong motor for my dryer PN PS3500892, the right one was PN PS11741125, the motor specs were the same but the shaft were different lengths and different blower fan and fasteners. Since I had the wrong motor in hand I worked with Parts Select to order the correct blower fan and fasteners for this motor. Got it all installed and everything fit as it should. even though this was a different part than I had before it saved me $100 by doing it this way, Thanks to Parts Select for helping me through this maze with me asking many questions about part sizes and fasteners. They did this all for my savings. Most parts places would not have gone this far for the customers benefit. Thank you very much Parts Select !

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

I've had this dryer since it was new It's over 25 years old. and it started to make a high pitch squealing sound when in use. Decided it's time to repair it. a new one is very expensive. So I ordered the parts from this site. When the parts arrived they where Inspected for fit, function and finish. So I proceeded with doing the repair myself. Short Phillips screw driver to remove the two sheet metal screws at the bottom front panel. tilted the panel from the bottom outward and removed it from the main tumbler cabinet. labeled the door switch wires one was yellow & one white. so I would not reinstall them incorrectly upon assembly. removed the front panel. set it aside. then removed the bulkhead panel 5/16" screw in each corner. removed that and set it aside. and there she was, the tumbler. I pulled the tensioner up to loosen the belt, and removed it. then grabbed the tumbler from the inside top slightly picked it upward and slid it out of the cabinet exposing the two rollers and axles one on each side that it sits on. at that point I noticed the drive belt was frayed and slightly worn. came back in the house and got on line ordered a new one from Parts Select it showed up a day later and a perfect match. the rollers are held in place by snap rings at the end of the axles. squeeze them they come off real easy, and on the back side there's a 14mm hex head nut. box wrench works good here to loosen the nut and remove the axles. the original washers are metallic and worn badly, they where making the high pitched squealing sound when they rotated so they came off and where replaced by the ones in the new roller kit and lubed with graphite not oil or grease. Graphite is dry and does not collect all the dirt and debris. put the new washers, new rollers & snap rings back on the axles grooves on the end, hand spun them and they where ready to roll. took the new belt placed it around the tumbler over the exact witness marks that where there so it would line up and lifted the tumbler back into the cabinet aligned the new belt over the motor pulley and tensioner lining it up exactly on the witness marks left by the old belt. slowly slid the tumbler back on to the new rollers rotated the tumbler a couple rotations clockwise to set the belt put the bulkhead back on the front with 5/16" sheet metal screws. in 4 corners, reinstalled the from panel along with the door switch wires and it was done. now the moment of truth. plug the machine in and turn it on!. Bingo! it runs so well you don't know it's even running. after this repair the machine performs even better. it actually takes LESS time for clothes to dry! AJS

Replaced the roller