MHE15PDAYA Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

replaced

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Remove the door and the plastic brackets on the other side of the door opening. Remove the front cover by gentally pulling from the top first. Support the dryer basket (I used an old towel and a block of wood. With a 1/2 inch wrench remove the Roller Shaft with the Drum Support still attached. Replace new shaft and drum support. (always replace both at the same time or you will find that the problem will come back much sooner.) Careful when installing. Make sure that the new non metalic washers (suppied) are propery seated when you are tightening down the nut.

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

We inherited this dryer three years ago upon purchasing our current house. At that time I found this website to purchase and install a couple of the baffles that were missing. This time, I checked the troubleshooting for my current problem and ordered all of the parts I felt I needed to resolve the problem. Once I received the parts, I followed the great how-to videos by Steve to disassemble the front of the dryer and remove the drum. I could not get to the repairs right away since the interior of the dryer was quite dirty and I took a lot of time to clean it out. Once I got to removing and replacing the drum rollers, idler pulley, rear drum felt shaft, and drum belt, everything went smoothly and was just as easy as Steve described in the videos. If I didn't have such a dirty machine interior, removing the old parts and installing the new parts would have taken less than an hour. I had to hold off on installing the front glide kit and front drum felt seal since I forgot to order two of each (I'll install these at a later date. I proceeded to putting everything back together and testing the dryer. The dryer now runs quietly and works great.

used needle nosed pliers, squeezed the latch pop up push new one in. very simple anyone can do it

I only had to replace the inside one
I pulled the old one out .
And snapped the other one in

looked at video on your web site my wife and I decided to try it ourselves we are 70 and 71 And I am in a wheelchair just had surgery so we ordered parts. received parts looked at repair video a couple of times and went for it. during process we had some moments of frustration but we went back to video. end result, screech is gone. could not have done it with out video thanks.

Several times I watched the video of "Steve" removing the old motor and installing the new one. Pretty much followed what he did. Faltered for a moment at the end reinstalling the drive belt as that was a blind procedure, done by feel. Hardest part was getting the spring clamps off the old motor; even Steve struggled a bit doing that part of the job on the video. But in the end, the dryver started right up and ran quieter than it has for months.

I removed the lower panel and control panel, then the front body panel. With those open, I removed the drum support and drum. I then removed the cover from the air guide, then unbolted the air guide from the motor assembly.

Then, I disconnected the wiring connector to the motor, unbolted the motor carrier from the bottom of the unit, and removed it. I removed the idler arm from the motor carrier, then unclipped the two clips holding the motor in the carrier.

At that point, while everything was out, I gave the carrier a thorough cleaning. I then placed the new motor, replaced the clips that hold it in place, and put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.

While I was in the machine, since I had everything taken apart, I did also take the opportunity to replace the idler pulley and drum rollers proactively.

Followed the directions of the video and all went smooth. Cleaning the lint and parts was the more time consuming than the actual repair. 30 minutes for the repair and an hour for the clean. All and all very easy.