MDE6700AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

remove top of dryer,remove dryer door, then remove front of dryer themostat is in front on exhaust duct has one white and one yellow wire two screws hold it in . Door switch is a push in connection with a three wire connector.

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

The lemon that I bought has forced me to open it up at least once a year. Anyone with a #2 phillips screwdriver and a good memory can take the challenge. Youtube has few videos on the same model. Best regards, Jim

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.

This was a simple repair. Removed the small access panel where the vent pipe comes through, the roller is right there. Unscrewed the support roller bolt, looking for all the pieces that had broken and fallen inside the housing of the dryer. Using the washers and nut from the old one, put the new roller in place, be aware that you have to lift the drum a little bit to get this new roller in. It could take two people depending on your strength. Tightened down the roller, spin the drum by hand to make sure it was ok, then put the access panel back on and fired it up for a test run.

I had a problem a couple of months ago with the dryer not heating and replaced the thermal fuse after checking the the parts with a voltage meter and the dryer worked fine. When I did the repair I also cleaned all the lint out of the dryer, exhaust, and the vent. It worked fine. A couple of weeks ago my wife commented about how hot the dryer was and it seemed unusual. I realized there was another problem but before I could check it, the dryer stopped heating again. Some time ago, the sensor dry funciton quit working so I just went ahead and changed all the electronic componets, the two on the exhaust tube and the two on the heating tube. I assumed the high limit thermostat failed. After unplugging the dryer, I took the two screws loose on the top backside of the dryer that hold the top in place and removed the top, sliding it back. I removed the four screws holding the control panel in place and rotated the panel forward, then up and out of the way. I removed the four screws along the top of the front panel, then the ones from around the opening on the front, and the front door. There was one screw that held the heating tube. I removed it and the tube slid forward. I took the front wire lose and rotated the tube clockwise to pull it out and took off the back wire and changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat. The exhaust tube was right there in the front and all I had to do was change out the parts on it. Everything went back to gether as easy as it came apart and when I plugged the dryer back in, it worked just like new.

Replace the igniter and dryer did light and after 3 minute went out. so I ordered to gas valve selenoid's and replaced those and everything it working properly

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

I change the Thermistor 3 bracket and worked well for 10 minutes and the thermistor is broken again

*Disconnect power cord before performing this task...(1) Remove the two screws holding top.(2) Remove four screws holding control module, tilt forward, pull up and unlatch. Place module on top, out of the way (still connected by wires). (3) Open dryer door, remove two screws holding lint trap assembly, close door. (4) Remove four screws on top of front cover, disconnect door light wire, tilt front cover forward, lift up from catch at bottom and remove. (5) Disconnect moisture sensor connection on bottom right for easier access to duct assembly. (6) Remove three screws holding duct assembly support bracket in place, raise duct assembly six inches to allow the bracket to be tilted toward rear and lifted out of the way. (7) Disconnect Red and Blue wires from front of duct assembly and pull assembly carefully from the rear of the unit and out the front paying attention to the wires still connected. (8) Remove wires connected to the thermostat and thermistor. (9) Remove screws holding in both units and replace with new components. (10) Reverse process and test. *note* if the unit appears to heat but clothing still wet, make sure moisture sensor was connected (I must have forgot and got to go back in to check, ooops). Regardless, this is an easy task. Could be intimidating at first but after the part has been accessed twice its no big deal and can be done over a lunch break.