DG21CS Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

Just unscrew the front of the dryer the Igniter kit is on the right side of dryer unscrew one bolt then replace with new Igniter kit very easy fix make sure to unplug dryer first that way you don't get a shock by touching exposed wires before putting front panel back on clean out any lint that may be in or around bottom of dryer.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

I looked for dryer repair videos on my computer. I found several and they all showed me that what was most likely broken was the tumbler belt. I didn't even know dryers had a belt. My dryer still turned on,and still produced heat. It just wouldn't rotate. One of the videos even used the exact Maytag dryer in their video that I had. After watching it a few times, I knew I could make this repair. I am pretty good at fixing things if I can first see it done. I had never taken a dryer apart before though. I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. I unscrewed the small access panel on the back of the dryer. This let me see the two belt pulleys back there. Then I went to the front and removed the two screws(my particular model) that held the front panel on and removed it. I then unscrewed the four screws holding on the front face plate in front of the tumbler. Next, I pulled the tumbler out, it is not screwed in. There was the broken belt. It took two days with regular shipping for the belt to come in. I put the tumbler back in, resting it on its two supports, placed the belt on, flat side down, and routed the belt through the pulleys in the back of the dryer exactly as it had been shown in the videos. I turned the tumbler clockwise two full rotations by hand to make sure the belt was seated correctly on the pulleys, and it was. I then screwed the face plate back on in front of the tumbler, put the front panel back on and screwed it in. I then reattached the back access panel. I plugged the dryer back in and turned it on. It worked. Though it may take a bit longer, this type of repair is about as easy as replacing a broken belt on a vacuum cleaner even for someone who has never done a dryer repair before. Watch a Repair Clinic video and if you enjoy fixing things, replacing a belt on a clothes dryer will be your next successful repair. It really is pretty easy.

Graet

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

My Maytag gas dryer model MDG7600AWW is about 12 years old. Everything else works fine except it takes 4-5 drying cycles instead of 1 to completely dry my clothes properly. The flat igniter was simply cracked but not broken so it only worked some times. My gas dryer igniter and the 2 ignition coils work hand in hand so I replaced all 3 parts. The ignition coils provide a solid and consistent power supply to the igniter for proper burner tube function. Disconnect power cord from wall outlet. Shut off gas supply by turning the wall gas valve off. Remove 2 small philips screws to detach front panel door from dryer frame. Remove 2 additional philips screws on left front side panel inner door frame. Gently pull front dryer panel off beginning at top and put it aside. Igniter and the 2 ignition coils are plainly visible and easily accessible at bottom right corner of dryer. Igniter is attached to the burner tube and facing into the heater housing assembly. The 2 ignition coils are attached just above the gas valve on the rear of the burner tube. The ignition coils are simply attached to the rear of the heater tube with one bracket using 2 small philips screws. First, disconnect igniter plug wire harness. Next, I recommend using a small open end applicable size wrench (5/16 perhaps) to remove attaching igniter screw. A small 1/4 ratchet with applicable socket size may also be used. Handle the igniter only from the white ceramic part when installing. You don't have to completely remove the igniter screw from the burner tube. The igniter has a white ceramic horse shoe shape slot in which the attaching screw goes through for tightening to the burner tube. Just unscrew generously for removal and replacement of the igniter. Do NOT over tighten igniter screw as the white ceramic plate may break from over torqing. Reconnect igniter wire plug harness. The igniter part I used was PartSelect Number PS373025. Next, remove the ignition coil bracket by unscrewing the 2 small philips screws from rear of the heater tube frame. Remove only 1 ignition coil at a time by removing the wire plug harness and simply lifting upward. One coil will have 2 prongs while the other has 3 prongs so you can't go wrong when reconnecting the wire plug harnesses. I used the PartSelect 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit (2 coils included)which was PartSelect Number PS334310. Replace the front dryer panel back. Attach the front door to the panel and dryer frame using the 2 philips screws. Attach the 2 left side inner door front panel philips screws to dryer frame. Turn on the wall gas valve. Reconnect power cord to wall outlet.

Upon receipt of part, just loosened 1 fastener, slid igniter forward and out....unclipped wire connection and replaced... Could not have been easier. Be careful not to overtighten fastener when replacing. Description and pictures made for very easy selection.

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

I removed the front panel (two screws at bottom, then lifted bottom toward me until the top holders slid out). Then I unscrewed the front assembly that holds the dryer drum (four screws), first propping the drum from below so it would stay in place. I removed the blower housing (seven screws) and could see that the blower wheel was loose on the spindle. The 'D' shaped fitting had rounded out. A pair of snap ring pliers made removing the retaining ring and the wheel clamp a cinch and saved a good deal of teeth gnashing. I slid on the new blower wheel and then did everything in reverse. One caution: be sure the drum is pushed firmly up and back when reattaching the front assembly. (It can be done successfully with two hands). I had to re-do this part of the reassembly because the bottom of the drum was rubbing against the blower assembly. Once that was corrected, the dryer ran noiselessly. Thank goodness for PartSelect's diagrams. They're invaluable.

Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws to remove the front drum housing. Remove 4 screws to remove the front drum housing. The front panel and front drum housing do not need to be unwired to work on the blower. Loosen wire harnesses and move panel and housing out of the way. Remove 2 spring clips holding the blower assembly to the motor shaft. Remove blower. Install new blower and re-assemble in the reverse order. The other stories written on the subject were spot on. This repair also made the clothes dry more quickly. I did not realize that long before the ryer made noise, there was a reduction in air flow. A simple vacuum switch to monitor air flow would tell you when there is a problem or that the filter/duct needs to be cleaned.

easy even for an old man. Simply removed igniter bracket inside access door on the front and installed new part. Flex drive nut driver and 1/4" socket was all that was needed. Saved me a lot of money and time without the 25 year old dryer.

I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt frayed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!

My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.

1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. Remove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel.
2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front.
3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped.
4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit.
5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner.
6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it.
7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones.
8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws.
9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws.
10. Re-connected power and tested operation.